Magical maui

Sunset, Nov, 2001 by Jeff Phillips

At the top of a sweeping slope of rangeland beyond the village is Kaukini Gallery, purveyor of local arts and crafts. And then there's nearly 10 miles of alternating panoramas of mountain and sea as the road twists south to Wailuku. Tired from snorkeling, clambering above the blowhole, and the adrenaline rush of navigating the narrow road, I'm content to enjoy the scenery as I munch on banana bread. The only thing that would make this drive any better is a rich, black cup of Al Franco's Haleakala-grown coffee.

West Maui highlights

ATTRACTIONS: Kaukini Gallery. Kahakuloa; (808) 244-3371. Maui Eco-Adventures. Offers a variety of half- and full-day tours, including mountain biking, for all interests and abilities. Call ahead to design your own tours. From $80. (808) 661-7720 or www.ecomaui.com.

DINING: Honolua Store. Locals stop here for heaping plate lunches and sandwiches; the store also serves breakfast. Food service 6-3 daily 502 Office Rd., Kapalua; (808) 669-6128. I'O and Pacific'O. This pair of upscale Lahaina restaurants sharing a beachfront location are projects of executive chef James McDonald. Pacific'O has more outside seating; I'O is more contemporary with a more experimental, Euro-Asian menu. 505 Front St. I'O: 5:30-10 daily; (808) 661-8422. Pacific'O: 11-4, 5:30-10 daily; (808) 667-4341. Sansel Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar. The island's best sushi and creative Japanese cuisine--don't miss the mango crab rolls--is also a good value. 5:30-10 daily. In Shops at Kapalua complex in Kapalua; (808) 669-6286.

LODGING: Hawaii Condo Exchange. The agency can help match your needs and budget to developments in the Napili Bay and Kahana areas. (800) 442-0404 or www.awaiicondoexchange.com. The upscale resort complex of Kapalua lies at West Maui's scenic far end; a good deal for families is one of the one- to three-bedroom golf course or waterfront condominiums at the Kapalua Villas (from $199; 500 Office Rd.; 800/545-0018). Guests of the 548-room Ritz-Carlton Kapalua (from $340; 1 Ritz-Carlton Dr.; 800/262-8440) can use the fitness center and pool. Another option is the 194-room Kapalua Bay Hotel (from $380; 1 Bay Dr.; 800/367-8000 or www.kapaluabayhotel.com). Napili Kai Beach Resort. With recently renovated bedrooms, this small, 162-room family resort is on the beach at Napili Bay. From $185. 5900 Honoapiilani Rd.; (800) 367-5030, (808) 669-6271, or www.napilikai.com.

BEFORE YOU GO

Guidebook. Maui Revealed, by Andrew Doughty and Harriett Friedman (Wizard Publications, Lihue, Hl; 2000; $14.95), is a good reference for exploring.

Hawaii's Best Bed & Breakfasts. This reliable agency books a number of small B&Bs and cottages in Hana and Upcountry. (800) 262-9912.

Maui Visitors Bureau. (800) 525-6284 or www.visitmaui.com. Important rental car note: Most rental car companies nullify insurance and other coverage in contracts if you drive the designated sections of substandard road that we drove beyond Kipahulu in Hana and beyond Nakalele Point in West Maui. You could be fully liable for costs of any accidents or breakdowns on these roads. Check specifics of the rental car company contracts and the extent of your personal automobile insurance coverage before heading out.