Cheese straw comeback - Recipe

Sunset, Nov, 2001 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

A favorite party nibble takes on new shapes and flavors

With the return of the cocktail party comes the rebirth of that old-fashioned appetizer, the cheese straw. Slender, crisp wands of pastry, cheese straws make the perfect companion to a martini or a glass of wine.

But think of classic cheddar--albeit tasty--only for starters. These sticks take well to many flavors, from savory to sweet. We've twisted tomato-basil straws, rolled out curry-seasoned ones, and spritzed blue cheese versions, from homemade pastry, purchased puff pastry, and butter-rich cookie dough. The mildly sweet variations are at home paired with cheeses. The sugar-crusted straws turn ice cream or fruit into a lively dessert.

Two-Tone Puff Straws

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: If making up to two days ahead, cool and store airtight at room temperature; freeze to store longer.

MAKES: 14 straws

1 sheet puff pastry (half of a 17.3-oz. package), at room temperature

1 large egg, beaten to blend Seasoning mix (see above right)

1 1/2 teaspoons coarse salt or 1 tablespoon coarse sugar

1. Unfold pastry sheet; lay flat on a lightly floured board. Roll into a inch-thick rectangle (10 by 14 in.); cut in half crosswise. Lightly brush both halves with egg. Sprinkle one evenly with seasoning mix. Set remaining half, egg side down, over seasoned half, aligning edges. Gently roll to seal layers without enlarging rectangle.

2. Cut rectangle lengthwise into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Brush tops lightly with more egg; save remaining egg for other uses or discard. Sprinkle strips evenly with salt (or sugar if using a sweet seasoning mix); with your hand, press lightly into surface of puff pastry.

3. One at a time, pick up strips by both ends, twist in opposite directions, and transfer to buttered 12- by 15-inch baking sheets (you'll need two), placing strips about 1 1/2 inches apart. Press ends onto sheets. (See photo below.)

4. Bake salt-crusted straws in a 400[degrees] regular or convection oven (sugar-crusted ones at 350[degrees]) until crisp and lightly browned, 8 to 13 minutes (14 to 20 minutes for sweet), switching pan positions halfway through baking. Let straws cool about 1 minute on sheets, then, with a wide spatula, loosen while still warm and transfer to rack (if straws stick, return pans briefly to oven to reheat). Serve warm or cool.

Pastry Straws

PREP AND COOK TIME: 50 to 60 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 3 days ahead, cool and store airtight at room temperature; freeze to store longer.

MAKES: About 4 dozen straws

About 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

Seasoning mix (see right)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) cold butter or margarine, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon sesame seeds or coarse sugar

1 large egg, beaten to blend

1. In a food processor or bowl, combine 1 1/2 cups flour (1 1/4 cups if using Cornmeal-Parmesan Seasoning Mix), seasoning mix, and salt; whirl or stir to blend. Add butter and pulse or cut in with a pastry blender until mixture forms 1/4-inch crumbs.

2. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons cold water (or lemon juice, if using Lemon-Anise Seasoning Mix) over mixture and pulse or mix with a fork until evenly moistened. Gently squeeze about 1/4 cup of the dough into a ball; if it won't hold together, crumble lump back into bowl, sprinkle with 1 to 2 more tablespoons cold water, and pulse or mix again until dough is evenly moistened and holds together.

3. With lightly floured hands, press dough into a ball; dust lightly with flour and press into a 1/2-inch-thick rectangle (4 1/2 by 6 1/2 in.). Press edges to make smooth.

4. On a lightly floured board, with a lightly floured rolling pin, roll dough firmly but gently in short strokes from the center outward into a 1/8-inch-thick rectangle (10 by 12 in.). Trim edges to make even. Sprinkle sesame seeds (or coarse sugar, if using Lemon-Anise Seasoning Mix) evenly over dough and roll lightly into surface without enlarging rectangle.

5. With a fluted pastry wheel or a knife, cut rectangle in half crosswise, then cut lengthwise across whole rectangle into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Brush lightly with beaten egg; save remaining egg for other uses or discard. One at a time, lift strips by both ends and transfer to 12-by 15-inch baking sheets (you'll need two), spacing about 1 inch apart.

6. Bake savory straws in a 375[degrees] regular or convection oven (sweet ones at 350[degrees]) until lightly browned and crisp, 12 to 20 minutes. Cool on sheets 1 minute, then transfer to racks with a wide spatula. Serve warm or cool.

Golden Spritz Straws

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 3 days ahead, cool and store airtight at room temperature; freeze to store longer.

MAKES: 20 to 24 straws

1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine, at room temperature

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 large egg

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon coarse sugar

1. In a bowl, with a mixer on high speed, beat butter and granulated sugar until creamy. Add egg; beat until well blended. Stir in flour, then beat until well blended.

2. Scrape dough into a cookie press fitted with a rosette or star-shaped tip (1/2 in. across widest dimension). Press dough through tip in straight lines 6 to 8 inches long onto 12- by 15-inch baking sheets (you'll need two), spacing about 1 1/2 inches apart. Sprinkle spritz straws with coarse sugar.