Sterling Carson City: Hear the voices of history in Nevada's capital

Sunset, May, 2002 by Lisa Taggart

Silver is a precious metal because it lasts, holding its beauty over time through all kinds of geologic pressures. The buildings, achievements, and stories of Carson City, the Silver State's capital, have the same enduring quality-and they add up to a town with lasting appeal.

Carson City was born with a silver spoon in its mouth. Less than 15 miles southwest of the Comstock Lode (and 10 miles due east of Lake Tahoe), the town originated and grew due to the 19th-century silver-mining boom surrounding Virginia City. Luckily for us, the city has preserved its past well. A half-dozen museums and many more elegant Victorian homes are within a few miles of the city's utterly walkable downtown.

The stately sandstone buildings in the Capitol complex-including the Capitol, the state supreme court, and the state printing office-represent more than 130 years of tradition. A short way to the south is the railroad museum, and the old mint is a few blocks north.

You can also absorb a big slice of local history walking around the neighborhoods close to downtown. Dozens of 100-year-old houses, churches, and businesses line the shady streets. Admire the Governor's Mansion, built in 1909 on land purchased for $10, or the home of Orion Clemens. His brother Samuel, a frequent guest, chronicled a journey to Carson City in Roughing It.

You might wonder about the stories these buildings would tell, if only they could talk. Well, conveniently, they can: The Carson City Convention and Visitors' Bureau has put together a narrated radio tour (accompanied by a map) for the 2 1/2-mile Kit Carson Trail that includes recorded histories of the buildings. Tune in at any one of 24 buildings and a 90-second vignette (including one about John Wayne) will give you an earful of the building's past.

Spring is a nice time for strolling in this small town, stopping at numerous antiques shops and restaurants, or resting in the lush park on Legislative Plaza. On Memorial Day weekend, you can take a guided living-history tour of the city's oldest homes, with actors telling stories from each building's past.

After walking your fill, stop for a bite at Adele's, where an antique bar and overstuffed furniture invite leisurely drinking. Then toast the durable strengths of silver.

RELATED ARTICLE: Carson City travel planner

Carson City is 10 miles east of Lake Tahoe and 30 miles south of Reno. For general information, contact the Carson City Convention and Visitors' Bureau (1900 S. Carson St.; 800/638-2321, 775/687-7410, or www.carson-city.org).

Sights

Brewery Arts Center. The former brewery and newspaper building, built in 1864, now houses a pottery studio, gallery, and gift shop. Theater and live music performances on weekends. 449 W. King St.; (775) 883-1976.

Carson City Wild West Tour. Guided walking tour of Victorian houses in downtown. 10-2:30 May 25; $5. Telegraph Square, Telegraph and Curry Streets; (775) 687-7410.

Children's Museum of Northern Nevada. Small museum emphasizes hands-on exhibits. Closed Mon; $5. 813 N. Carson; (775) 884-2226.

Kit Carson Trail. A blue line and bronze plaques mark the 2 1/2-mile loop that tours the city's historic homes. Pick up a Kit Carson Trail map at the visitor bureau.

Nevada State Capitol. Sandstone structure built in 1871 has a silver-colored dome, declaring it capital of the Silver State. Inside, view portraits of state governors and exhibits on the history of the building. Free. 101 N. Carson; (775) 687-4810.

Nevada State Museum. In the former mint, which churned out $50 million in silver and gold coins during the Comstock mining era, the museum houses exhibits on area history; one of the most impressive is a casting of a skeleton of an imperial mammoth (one of the largest of the mammoths) that was found in the Black Rock Desert. $3. 600 N. Carson; (775) 687-4810.

Nevada State Railroad Museum. Steam trains, restored coaches, and model trains abound. Most of the train equipment here is from the Virginia & Truckee Railroad, which ran from Reno to Virginia City and Minden. Scheduled steam train excursions on weekends and holidays. $2.50 steam train ride. 2180 S. Carson; (775) 687-6953.

Dining

Adele's Restaurant & Lounge. Rooms in this 1875 home are decorated with Victorian-style furnishings, creating cozy nooks that are perfect for enjoying a martini, filet mignon, or roasted duck in cassis-berry sauce. Outdoor seating on side veranda. Closed Sun. 1112 N. Carson; (775) 882-3353.

Carson Nugget. For the classic Nevada dining experience, try the 24-hour coffee shop, the Garden Room, or the all-you-can-eat Comstock Buffet in this small casino. 507 N. Carson; (775) 882-1626.

Java Joe's. Internet cafe with espresso, pastries, sandwiches, and desserts. 319 N. Carson; (775) 883-4004.

Lodging

Best Western Carson Station Hotel Casino. This hotel has 92 rooms and a casino on the ground floor. From $54. 900 S. Carson; (800) 501-2929.

Bliss Mansion Bed & Breakfast. The fanciest accommodation in town, the 1879 building has five rooms with marble fireplaces. From $145. 710 W. Robinson St.; (800) 887-3501 or (775) 887-8988.