Finding paradise in Waikiki; The secret to having fun and saving money along Hawaii's most famous beach: go local - Travel: Value Vacation

Sunset, Nov, 2002 by Alex Salkever

Carefree in Waikiki sounds nice, but isn't Honolulu one of the most expensive vacation spots in the country? Hardly While you can drop $400 for one night in a luxury beachfront resort, my wife, Lisa, and I managed to be positively parsimonious on a three-day spree in Waikiki. In fact, $327 took us the whole way. The key? Search the Web for hotel specials and ask for discounts; enjoy lots of outdoor activities; and eat where the locals eat. The big sacrifice? Being without a car is a downer in a town with mediocre public transport. Still, we had a ball on budget and headed home tanned and relaxed.

Day One: Kapiolani Park and Waikiki's main street

We stayed at the Queen Kapiolani Hotel. The appeal of this somewhat divey abode on the eastern border of Waikiki is its location: across from lush green Kapiolani Park and only a block from the beach. Our room was tired but clean and had an incredible view of the surf. And we got a great deal; two nights plus tax came to $160.

A nicer (and a bit pricier) alternative is the Park Shore Hotel Waikiki, next door. There are plenty of other budget hotels in Waikiki (prices bottom out in the $60-$70 range), but the appeal of locations varies.

After checking in, we made the quick walk to Queen's Surf Beach, the eastern extension of Waikiki Beach. Refreshed by the blue rollers, we took a five-minute stroll east down Kalakaua Avenue to the Waikiki Aquarium ($7 each), which arguably has the world's best live coral exhibits, with stunning reef environments.

Heading west across Kapiolani Park, we happened on the free Friday Bandstand Concert at the park's new copper-roofed stage. Local singer Keahi Conjugacion was crooning oldies like "Little Grass Shack."

Kalakaua Avenue is Waikiki's main drag, and something is always going on there. Ambling down the sidewalk looking for a place to eat, my wife was drawn to the sounds of a young Tongan choir belting out nightingale-sweet gospel tunes in perfect harmony. Midway down Kalakaua we pulled up a couple of rocking chairs on the peaceful veranda of the Sheraton Moana Surfrider. The oldest hotel in Waikiki, this alabaster-pillared gem has the mellowest interior courtyard in the islands, complete with a spreading Banyan tree and moonlit hula dancers.

Hungry, we staggered into the spare confines of Yabusoba, austere but comfy in the way of a classic Japanese noodle house. We ordered chilled somen noodles with crispy tempura and hot udon in pleasantly salty fish broth ($27.44); both were excellent.

Day Two: Royalty, Chinatown, and movies on the beach

Next: sightseeing. The #2 bus ($1.50 per person each way) took us through the historic center of Honolulu and dropped us at Iolani Palace. You can reserve an excellent guided tour ($20) or simply stroll the grounds surrounding the ornate building where Queen Liliuokalani lost her kingdom in 1893.

Lisa and I had breakfast at the beachfront Starbucks on the corner of Kapahulu and Kalakaua Avenues. Lisa sipped a large green tea and nibbled on a pineapple-bran muffin. I savored fresh papaya chunks purchased next door at one of the ubiquitous ABC Stores (total breakfast: $6.76).

After wandering through the coral stone Kawaiahao Church nearby, we walked west through the Bishop Street business district to Chinatown, a warren of two-story brick and stone storefronts, some dating back to the 19th century Honolulu's seedy stepchild only two decades ago, Chinatown is changing as galleries and upscale restaurants open amidst the herbal shops, pho houses, and open-air markets. On Maunakea Street, the flowery fragrance of the leistands--the best bargains in town, with simple plumaria leis starting at a few bucks--wafted into the air. We admired but did not buy. But at the Maunakea Marketplace, we surveyed the Hawaiian seafood and Asian produce and couldn't resist a half-pound bag ($3) of fat, luscious litchis.

Legend Seafood Restaurant, a dim sum palace, is always packed at lunch. We ordered from steaming carts of fried turnip cakes and boiled shrimp and scallion dumplings. I maxed out after the egg cream buns ($28.65 total), a victim of Polynesian paralysis.

After a stop at our hotel, we needed sand time. A 15-minute walk east past the aquarium led to Sans Souci Beach. Lisa penned postcards under a palm while I snorkeled calm waters where angelfish lazed. Polynesian paralysis finally won. I took a nap.

After a shower we headed back to Queen's Surf Beach. We took a dusk stroll and readied ourselves for Sunset on the Beach, a weekly program of free, big-screen, oceanfront flicks (movies begin at 7:30). Lisa held our patch of sand for Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom while I lined up for hearty "plate lunch" dinners from Moani's Country Kitchen, one of the vendors that feeds the movie crowd. The teriyaki chicken plate with macaroni salad was greasy, but the haupia (coconut pudding) was divine ($13, including drinks). I also bought freshly roasted honey- and cinnamon-coated macadamia nuts from the Nutty Hawaiian ($3 for a small cone). Cinema paradiso, Hawaiian-style.