Grand new roasts: flavorful sidekicks make holiday main dishes memorable - Holiday Entertaining

Sunset, Nov, 2002 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

Feasting, to be done well, requires scale. A magnificent roast is the traditional entree for establishing grandeur on special occasions. Although modern households are rarely big enough to consume a saddle of this or a baron of that, a pork roast made of two loins bound together and a playful crown of chicken drumsticks are delicious smaller-but-impressive choices.

They get even better with the perfect companion dish: with the pork, a lavish fennel and Belgian endive casserole, and to fill the ring of chicken drumsticks, bacon-laced cornbread dressing with tangy glazed pecans and a homey cream gravy. The very best news is that these side dishes can be prepared, for the most part, a day ahead of time, leaving you time to think about that final festive touch: the perfect wine to pour with your grand roast (see page 160).

Double Pork Loin Roast with Fennel and Sage

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 21/2 hours, plus about 15 minutes to rest

NOTES: Two boned pork loins tied together create an impressive-looking roast. This shape is found in many markets; you can also ask your butcher to assemble one for you. Garnish with some of the extra fennel greens from the accompanying fennel and Belgian endive casserole.

MAKES: 10 to 12 servings

1  fat-trimmed, boned, tied
   double pork loin roast (4 3/4 to
   5 lb.; see notes)
1  tablespoon fennel seeds
2  teaspoons dried rubbed sage
2  teaspoons whole black
   peppercorns
   About 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher or
   coarse salt
1  cup fat-skimmed chicken broth
   Fennel and Belgian endive
   casserole (recipe follows)

1. Rinse pork and pat dry.

2. In a food processor (a mini model works best), blender, or mortar with pestle, coarsely grind or crush fennel seeds with sage, peppercorns, and 11/2 teaspoons salt. Rub all the fennel-seed mixture evenly over pork, tucking some into crevice where roasts join.

3. Set meat on a rack in a 9- to 10-inch by 13- to 15-inch rimmed pan. Bake in a 375[degrees] regular or convection oven until a thermometer inserted in center of roast reaches 1500, about 21/4 hours.

4. Transfer roast to a platter; let rest in a warm place for at least 10 and up to 30 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, skim and discard fat from pan drippings. Add chicken broth to pan; scrape bottom to release browned bits. Set pan over high heat and stir until boiling. Pour any juices accumulated on platter into pan. Pour mixture through a fine strainer into a small pitcher.

6. Slice meat and serve with pan juices, salt to add to taste, and fennel and Belgian endive casserole.

Per serving: 291 cal., 40% (117 cal.) from fat; 40 g protein; 13 g fat (4.8 g sat.); 0.5 g carbo (0.3 g fiber); 322 mg sodium; 111 mg chol.

Fennel and Belgian Endive Casserole

PREP AND COOK TIME: 13/4 hours

NOTES: The vegetables cook in a plentiful cheese and cream sauce; spoon the sauce over the sliced pork. You can prepare the casserole through step 8 up to 1 day ahead; cool after baking, cover with plastic wrap, and chill. To reheat, remove plastic wrap; cover casserole tightly with foil and bake in a 375[degrees] regular or convection oven until bubbling and hot in the center, about 30 minutes, then continue with step 9.

MAKES: 12 servings

  6  heads fennel with stalks (each
     3 to 3 1/2 in. wide)
  3  heads Belgian endive (about
     4 oz. each)
1/4  cup (1/8 lb.) butter or olive oil
  3  ounces thinly sliced prosciutto
  3  tablespoons all-purpose flour
  2  cups fat-skimmed chicken broth
  1  cup whipping cream
  8  ounces gorgonzola or dolce
     gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
     (about 3/4 cup)

1. Pinch off tender green fennel leaves; rinse, drain, wrap in a towel, place in a plastic bag, and chill up to 1 day.

2. Trim off and discard stalks, root ends, and any bruised areas from fennel heads. Rinse heads and cut in half lengthwise across widest dimension.

3. Trim off and discard discolored root ends and any discolored leaves from endive. Cut heads in half lengthwise.

4. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. Lay as much fennel as will fit, cut side down, in pan and brown lightly, 3 to 4 minutes; turn and brown curved sides, 3 to 4 minutes longer. If butter starts to scorch, add water, 1 to 2 tablespoons at a time. As it is browned, transfer fennel, cut side up, to a shallow 3-quart casserole or 9- by 13-inch baking dish, and brown remaining pieces.

5. When all fennel is browned, lay endive cut side down in frying pan and brown, 3 to 4 minutes, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons water if it begins to scorch. Turn over and brown top sides, 3 to 4 minutes longer.

6. Remove pan from heat and transfer endive to a cutting board. Cut halves in half lengthwise. Tear prosciutto slices into long, narrow strips. Wrap endive sections equally with prosciutto. Fit endive pieces evenly among fennel pieces in casserole.

7. In the unwashed frying pan over high heat, melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter; add flour and stir until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and gradually whisk in broth and cream. Return pan to high heat and whisk until boiling; boil and stir 2 minutes longer. Add 1/3 cup cheese and whisk until melted. Pour sauce evenly over fennel and endive, coating all surfaces. Cover tightly with foil.