Exploring roots: fresh, elegant ideas for root vegetables on your holiday table - Food

Sunset, Nov, 2002 by Paula Freschet

* Gnarled and knobby root vegetables taste better than they look--just out of the earth, at least. But peel away the dull brownish skins of such flavorful gems as beets, sweet potatoes, parsnips, and sunchokes, and you'll find both unexpected elegance and sweet, earthy flavors that make these underground stars perfect for winter dishes. Baked into a witty take on a tarte tatin, candied with bourbon, or bubbling with cream in a gratin, root vegetables offer a host of fresh possibilities for holiday meals.

Upside-down Caramelized Root Tart

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/2 hours

NOTES: Mixing colors of beets in this tart creates an attractive effect; however, the red will bleed some. You can prepare through step 6 up to 1 day ahead, but cool and chill vegetables and pan before adding pastry, then cover and chill tart. Uncover and bake as directed in step 7, allowing 5 to 15 minutes extra.

MAKES: 6 servings

     About 1 1/8 cups all-purpose flour
     Abour 1/4 teaspoon salt
  5  tablespoons cold butter, cut into
     chunks
  2  tablespoons solid vegetable
     shortening
  1  pound gold or red beets (or use
     some of both colors; see notes)
 12  ounces baby or baby-cut carrots
     (each 3 to 4 in. long and no
     thicker than 3/4 in.)
 12  ounces turnips
  8  ounces cipollini onions (each
     1 1/2 in. wide) or red or white
     boiling onions
 12  cloves garlic (each 3/4 in. wide)
  1  tablespoon olive oil
3/4  cup vegetable or fat-skimmed
     chicken broth
  2  tablespoons white or dark
     balsamic vinegar
  2  teaspoons each chopped fresh
     rosemary and sage leaves, or 1/2
     teaspoon each dried rosemary
     and sage
  1  tablespoon sugar
     Pepper
     Fresh rosemary or sage sprigs,
     rinsed, or chopped fresh herbs
     (optional)
     Sour cream or creme fraiche

1. In a bowl, mix 1 cup flour and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add 4 tablespoons of the butter and all the shortening. With a pastry blender or your fingers, cut or rub in butter and shortening until mixture forms pea-size pieces.

2. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons cold water over mixture and stir with a fork just until evenly moistened. With lightly floured hands, gently squeeze about 1/4 cup of the dough into a ball. If it won't hold together, crumble lump back into bowl and sprinkle with 1 more tablespoon water; stir again with a fork until evenly moistened.

3. With lightly floured hands, gather all of the dough into a ball. Pat into a 6-inch disk, wrap in plastic, and chill until firm, 20 to 30 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, peel beets, carrots, turnips, and onions; trim off and discard tops and ends. Cut turnips and beets into about 1-inch chunks. Peel garlic, but keep cloves whole. You should have about 8 cups vegetables total; save any extra for other uses.

5. In a 10- to 11-inch ovenproof frying pan (with 2- to 2 3/4-qt. capacity), melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter with oil over medium heat. Add 1/2 cup broth, beets, carrots, turnips, onions, and garlic. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally until vegetables are tender when pierced, 20 to 30 minutes. Uncover and add remaining 1/4 cup broth and the vinegar, chopped herbs, and sugar. Stirring often to prevent scorching, cook over high heat until most of the liquid is evaporated and pan juices are thick and syrupy 3 to 5 minutes, Remove pan from heat and season vegetables to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

6. On a board, overlap sheets of waxed paper to make a 16-inch square. Unwrap dough, dust with flour, and place on paper. Cover with more waxed paper. With short, gentle strokes, roll dough into an even 12-inch round. Remove top layer of waxed paper, invert dough over vegetables, and remove remaining paper. Tuck edge of dough between vegetables and pan. Cut four 1-inch vents near center of dough.

7. Bake in the middle of a 400[degrees] regular or convection oven until pastry is deep golden, 30 to 40 minutes. Let cool on a rack for 5 minutes. Loosen crust from sides of pan. Place a rimmed serving plate over crust. Using pot holders, hold plate and pan together, invert pan over plate, and lift pan off Garnish tart with fresh herb sprigs. Cut into wedges and serve with sour cream to spoon over individual portions.

Per serving: 325 cal., 47% (153 cal.) from fat; 5.2 g protein; 17 g fat (7.4 g sat.); 40 g carbo (4.3 g fiber); 291 mg sodium; 26 mg chol.

Bourbon Sweet Potatoes and Parsnips

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours

NOTES: Garnet and Jewel sweet potatoes have moist, bright orange flesh and skin ranging from light copper to dark red; they are often labeled yams in grocery stores (for more on sweet potatoes, see "Yam nation" at right). Look for small to medium-size parsnips; the larger ones can have a woody core.

MAKES: 6 servings

1 3/4  pounds Garnet or Jewel sweet
       potatoes (see notes)
1 3/4  pounds parsnips (see notes )
  1/3  cup maple syrup
  1/3  cup firmly packed light
       brown sugar
  1/4  cup bourbon or orange juice
    2  tablespoons butter, cut into
       small pieces
    1  teaspoon shredded orange peel
    2  tablespoons orange juice
  1/8  teaspoon ground cardamom
  1/4  cup coarsely chopped percans
       Salt