Delta discoveries: enjoy a houseboat hideaway among the many inviting waterways of California's Central Valley - Travel

Sunset, May, 2003 by Lisa Taggart

Frazzled and embarrassed, we re-launched, thinking we'd find peace on the water. And we did--listening to the birds, watching the sun and the tide rise, knowing that with our newfound skills, our next delta adventure would be full of peaceful moments like this.

RELATED ARTICLE: Houseboat how-to

For a family or group, renting a houseboat can make a fun vacation. Call well in advance to book for summer months.

* In addition to renting the boat, be prepared to pay for fuel.

* Don't motor at night.

* Check the tide tables before docking for the night and before passing under bridges.

* Check currents and wind conditions before docking.

* Bring linens and sleeping bags.

* Pack light, since storage space can be tight. Bring sunscreen, bug repellent, a flashlight, warm clothing for cool nights, and extra towels for bathing.

* Bring groceries with you, since a marina's selection can be limited.

Where to rent

Paradise Point Marina. Costs start at $1,150 for three days and two nights on a 10-person boat (from $1,350 Jun 16-Sep 1 and Memorial Day weekend). Seven Crown Resorts, 8095 Rio Blanco Rd., Stockton; www.paradisepointmarina.com or (209) 952-1000.

Delta Houseboat Rentals. From $1,495 for two weekend nights or three weeknights on a 10-person boat (from $2,095 Jun 3-Aug 30). Forever Resorts, 1400 Old Levee Rd., Walnut Grove; www.foreverresorts.com, (800) 255-5561, or (916) 776-4270.

Herman & Helen's Marina. From $740 for three nights on a sixperson boat. Venice Island Ferry, Stockton, www.herman-helens.com, (800) 675-4841, or (209) 951-4634.

Plunge into the delta

For general information, contact the California Delta Chambers and Visitors Bureau (www.callforniadelta.org or 209/367-9840).

Bitter Melon: Inside America's Last Rural Chinese Town is a good history of Locke, with text by Jeff Gillenkirk and photographs by James Motlow (Heyday Books, Berkeley, 1 997; $22; 510/549-3564).

Food

Alma's Cafe. This 40-year-old diner serves hearty breakfasts. 14147 River Rd., Walnut Grove; (916) 776-1650.

Breadfruit Tree. Colorfully painted dining room with Caribbean dishes such as chicken peleau and curry lamb. Closed Mon. Disappointment Slough, Paradise Point Marina; (209) 952-7361.

Locke Garden Chinese Restaurant. Good spring rolls, fried rice, and steamed pork buns. Closed Mon. 13967 River Rd., Locke; (916) 776-2100.

Orilla del Rio. Great tortilla soup. C/osed Mon. 14133 Market St., Walnut Grove; (976) 776-2007.

Yozen Frogurt. Coffee, juices, and smoothies. 26 N. Second St., Rio Vista; (707) 374-5777.

Lodging

If you're planning a delta visit but aren't ready to tackle a houseboat, these lodgings are on or close to the water.

Delta King. This 1927 riverboat now houses a restaurant and hotel, with 44 shipshape rooms. From $139. 1000 Front St., Sacramento; (800) 825-5464.

Ryde Hotel. Art deco-style 1927 building has 32 rooms. Adjoining restaurant is open Fri-Sun. From $99. 14340 Hwy 160, Ryde; (916) 776-1318.

Activities

Brannan Island State Recreation Area. The 336-acre park has a swimming beach, guided canoe trips on spring and tall weekends ($15), and windsurfing coves. Visitor center open Sat-Sun; $4 dayuse fee. Rio Vista; (976) 777-6671.