Winter light: fresh herbs and a special presentation make halibut a casually elegant dinner - Holiday Entertaining

Sunset, Nov, 2003 by Kate Washington

Rich, elaborate meals can be welcome at the holiday season; after a few, though, sometimes we all need a break. This stylish dinner party for six is a relaxing change of pace that shows off the lighter side of winter flavors.

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In our main course, halibut pieces are roasted on a bed of sea salt and winter herbs--a fresh adaptation of the classic technique of baking a whole fish in salt. Purchase roasted red peppers and olives for an easy appetizer; while guests nibble, the scent of warm herbs will perfume your home. The fish is done in just 20 minutes; bring the whole dish to the table for a beautiful presentation, and complement it with golden saffron orzo and roasted kale accented with preserved lemon. A salad of fennel and oranges and a redgold compote of dried cherries and apricots complete the meal.

Fennel-Orange Salad with Green Olives

PREP TIME: 10 minutes

NOTES: Serve this easy salad with the main course, or bring it out at the end of the meal for a refreshing note before dessert.

MAKES: 6 servings

  4 navel oranges (about 8 oz. each)

  1 head fennel (about 12 oz.), stalks
    and discolored ends trimmed and
    discarded

  2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
    Salt and fresh-ground pepper

1/2 cup pitted green olives

1. Cut ends off oranges, then cut away peel and outer membrane of fruit in wide strips, following the curve of the orange with the knife. Discard peel; slice fruit crosswise 1/2 inch thick and arrange slices on a large rimmed plate.

2. Rinse fennel and thinly slice crosswise (or use a mandoline); arrange slices over oranges.

3. Drizzle olive oil evenly over fennel and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Scatter olives over salad.

Per serving: 115 cal., 50% (57 cal.) from fat; 1.8 g protein; 6.3 g fat (0.8 g sat.); 16 g carbo (4.2 g fiber); 298 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Halibut Roasted on a Bed of Salt

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes

NOTES: We've adapted the technique of baking a whole fish in salt to individual pieces, which are easier to handle and serve. The secret is heating the salt first: When sprinkled on top, the herbs produce instant aromas that flavor the fish. The heat also cooks the underside of the fish quickly, so the center is done before the edges begin to dry out.

MAKES: 6 servings

  About 5 cups coarse sea salt

6 pieces halibut (6 to 8 oz. each;
  1 1/2 in. thick), rinsed and patted dry

  Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

  About 1 cup lightly packed fresh
  thyme sprigs, rinsed

  About 1 cup lightly packed fresh
  oregano sprigs, rinsed

A relaxed dinner plan

This menu lets guests watch (or help) you put the finishing touches on the meal. Here's how to time it for maximum effect.

A day or two ahead: Make apricot-cherry compote.

The afternoon of the party: Rinse halibut and herbs; put salt in baking dish; make herb oil; measure ingredients for orzo; chop kale and coat with oil (step 1).

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Shortly before guests arrive: Make fennel-orange salad; soak saffron for orzo; heat oven to 450[degrees]; set out purchased appetizers.

About 40 minutes before serving: Heat salt in oven.

About 30 minutes before serving: Saute shallots and toast orzo (step 2); brown fish (step 2).

About 20 minutes before serving: Scatter herbs over hot salt, top with fish, and roast; put kale in oven; finish cooking orzo (step 3).

Just before serving: Drizzle a little extra olive oil over salad; stir lemons into kale; spoon orzo into a serving dish.

20 fresh or dried bay leaves

 1 Meyer or regular lemon, rinsed
   and thinly sliced crosswise

   Herb oil (recipe follows)

1. Spread salt level (about 1 in. deep) in a 5- to 6-quart oval or 9- by 13-inch rectangular baking dish. Heat in a 450[degrees] regular or convection oven until very hot, about 20 minutes.

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2. Meanwhile, sprinkle one side of halibut lightly with salt and pepper. Pour olive oil into a 10-to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat. When hot, place fish pieces in pan, seasoned side down, without crowding; work in batches if necessary. Cook until lightly browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes.

3. Remove baking dish from oven and distribute thyme and oregano sprigs, bay leaves, and all but three of the lemon slices evenly over hot salt (some salt will still be visible). Set halibut pieces browned side up over herbs and salt, spacing evenly. Cut reserved lemon slices in half and place half a slice on each piece of fish.

4. Bake until fish is opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with herb oil to drizzle over fish to taste.

Per serving: 207 cal., 27% (55 cal.) from fat; 35 g protein; 6.1 g fat (0.9 g sat.); 0 g carbo; sodium varies; 54 mg chol.

Herb oil. In a blender, combine 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil with 2 tablespoons each fresh thyme leaves, fresh oregano leaves, and chopped parsley. Whirl until smooth, then pour through a fine strainer into a bowl, pressing to extract as much oil as possible. Discard residue. Makes 1/3 cup.

Per tablespoon: 120 cal., 100% from fat; 0 g protein; 14 g fat (2 g sat.); 0 g carbo; 0 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.