Sweet and sour: mix and match citrus fruits for bright flavors in the dark of winter - Food

Sunset, Nov, 2003 by Kate Washington

Citrus fruits, miraculously, peak just when almost everything else is decidedly out of season, bringing sweetness and light to a month that could use a little brightening up. The variety of citrus now widely available--from tiny kumquats to pummeloes as big as a person's head, and garnet-colored blood oranges to topazlike Ruby grapefruit--can add zest to any course.

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Nut-Crusted Sole with Citrus Salsa

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

      Juice from citrus salsa (recipe follows)
      Orange juice (if needed)
1 1/2 pounds petrale or other sole fillets (cut in half if very large),

      rinsed

   1  cup cashews or pecans

   1  cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs) or fresh bread crumbs

  1/2 teaspoon salt

  1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper Vegetable oil

   1  large egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water

      Citrus salsa

1. Measure juice from citrus salsa. If needed, add orange juice to make 1/3 cup. Place fillets of sole in a heavy zip-lock plastic bag and pour in juice. Seal bag and chill for 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a blender or food processor, pulse cashews until finely ground. In a shallow bowl, mix nuts with panko, salt, and pepper.

3. Pour 2 tablespoons oil into a 10- to 12- inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat; when hot, lift fillets from juice. Dip each in egg, then in cashew mixture to coat. Working in batches, place fillets in a single layer in pan (do not crowd). Cook until browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes; turn with a wide spatula and cook until other side is browned and fish is opaque but still moist-looking in center (cut to test), about 2 minutes longer. Drain briefly on paper towels; keep warm in a 200[degrees] oven. Repeat to fry remaining fish, wiping out pan with paper towels and adding 2 tablespoons oil between batches.

4. Transfer fillets to plates and top with citrus salsa; serve at once with remaining salsa alongside.

Per serving: 362 cal., 52% (189 cal.) from fat; 28 g protein; 21 g fat (4 g sat.); 15 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 438 mg sodium; 90 mg chol.

Citrus Salsa

PREP TIME: About 30 minutes

MAKES: About 3 cups

1   Ruby grapefruit (12 oz.)
1   Honey tangerine (6 oz.)
1   Valencia or navel orange (6 oz.)
1   blood orange (4 oz.)
1   Meyer lemon (4 oz.)
1   lime (3 oz.)
1   avocado (8 oz.)
6   kumquats (2 oz. total), minced
1   fresh hot red chili, rinsed, seeded, and minced
2   tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1/2 teaspoon salt

1. Working on a cutting board with a juice well, cut off and discard ends from grapefruit, tangerine, orange, blood orange, lemon, and lime. With a small, sharp knife, cut peels and outer membranes from fruit and discard. Squeeze any juice from membranes into a 1-cup measure and reserve.

2. Cut fruit crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices, then cut slices into cubes, discarding seeds. Pour juice from well of cutting board into glass measure; reserve for nut-crusted sole (recipe precedes).

3. Pit, peel, and dice avocado. In a bowl, gently mix citrus cubes, avocado, kumquats, chili, mint, and salt.

Per 1/4 cup: 47 cal., 43% (20 cal.) from fat; 0.8 g protein; 2.2 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 7.9 g carbo (1.5 g fiber); 99 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Peel deal

When using citrus fruit, you often have a pile of peels left over; use them in simple candied peel. Use candied peel to enhance baked goods, or dip some in chocolate and serve with coffee.

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Candied Citrus Peel

Put 12 ounces rinsed, quartered citrus peels (including white pith; if using peels reserved from another use, scrape off any clinging fruit) in a 2- to 3-quart pan and add water to cover. Boil over high heat for 1 minute, then reduce heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain; repeat process twice. When peels are cool, scrape away any white pith thicker than 1/4 inch. Cut peels lengthwise into strips (1/4 in. wide). In pan, combine 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar, 1/4 cup light corn syrup, and 1 1/2 cups water. Set over medium-high heat and cook, swirling occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Add peels, reduce heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 1 hour. Transfer peels to a wire rack set over waxed paper. Let stand until barely moist to touch, about 2 hours. Roll peels in superfine sugar and set on a clean wire rack; let dry completely, 8 hours or overnight. Store airtight, covering peels completely with sugar, up to 2 months. Makes 1 pound.

Thai Pummelo Salad

PREP TIME: 30 minutes

NOTES: This refreshing Thai salad is a delicious relish for pork satay (recipe follows).

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

3   pummeloes (1 1/2 lb. each)
2   cups diced (1/4 in.) English cucumbers
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro
1   fresh serrano or jalapeno chili, rinsed, stemmed, seeded, and minced
    About 2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce (nuoc mam or nam pla)
1/2 cup chopped unsalted roasted peanuts

1. Cut off and discard thick pummelo skins. With your fingers, divide pummeloes into segments. Pull off and discard membrances; pull fruit into 1/2-inch chunks. Place in a bowl.