Peas, please: fresh ideas for cooking with spring's sweetest vegetable

Sunset, May, 2004 by Kate Washington

Bright green peas, with their fresh flavor and sweet crunch, are one of the most welcome signs of spring. They're delicious in all their guises--sturdy sugar snaps, translucent young snow peas, and delicate English (shelling) peas. Easy to prepare and fast to cook, peas are as simple to use as they are beautiful. Our recipes show off each type's distinctive characteristics. Shred slender snow peas and toss them in a sesame-spiked Asian dressing, combine sugar snaps with meaty scallops in a stir-fry, or use the sweet pods of fresh peas in a delicate soup with creme fraiche. We also combine all three types in a medley with leeks, mint, and cream. Whatever you choose, emerald green fresh peas will brighten up your table.

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Snow Pea Salad with Sesame Dressing

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes, plus at least 1 hour to chill

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

    1 pound snow peas, trimmed and blanched (see "How to Prepare Peas,"
      page 153)
    3 tablespoons vegetable oil
    2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
    2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
    1 teaspoon sugar
  1/2 teaspoon hot Chinese mustard
    2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onions
    1 teaspoon sesame seeds

1. Stack several snow peas and slice on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-wide strips. Repeat to slice remaining peas.

2. In a large bowl, whisk vegetable oil, soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, sugar, and mustard until well combined. Add sliced snow peas and 1 tablespoon green onions; mix to coat. Cover and chill until cold, at least 1 hour, or up to 1 day.

3. Just before serving, mound salad on a platter and sprinkle with remaining tablespoon green onions and the sesame seeds.

Per serving: 132 cal., 75% (99 cal.) from fat; 2.5 g protein; 11 g fat (1.4 g sat.); 7.2 g carbo (2 g fiber); 352 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Pea Pod Soup with Lemon Creme Fraiche

PREP AND COOK TIME: 1 1/2 hours

MAKES: 2 quarts; 4 to 6 servings

NOTES: If you cannot find creme fraiche, substitute sour cream; omit lemon juice and add 1 more teaspoon lemon peel.

  2 pounds fresh peas in the pod
  2 tablespoons butter
  1 cup chopped shallots
  1 cup dry white wine
  1 quart fat-skimmed chicken broth
1/2 cup basmati rice
1/2 cup creme fraiche (see notes)
  1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
  2 teaspoons lemon juice Salt and fresh-ground pepper

1. Rinse peas in pods. Cut off and discard tough ends from pods; pull off and discard strings. Shell peas. Reserve pods; blanch and reserve peas (see "How to Prepare Peas," page 153).

2. In a 4- to 5-quart pan over medium heat, melt butter. When it is foamy, add shallots and stir until limp, about 3 minutes. Add wine, increase heat, and boil, stirring, until about half the liquid has evaporated. Add pea pods, chicken broth, and 3 cups water; lower heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add rice and cook until pods are tender when pierced, 25 minutes longer.

3. In a small bowl, stir together creme fraiche, lemon peel, and lemon juice.

4. Working in small batches, transfer pod mixture to a blender; whirl until nearly smooth. (The tough bits of pea pods may catch on blade; stop motor and remove blender jar to clean blade as needed.) Pour soup through a fine strainer into a 4- to 5-quart pan, pressing on solids to extract liquid; discard solids.

5. Stir in half the lemon creme fraiche; add salt and pepper to taste. Set over medium heat; stir occasionally until soup is steaming. Add blanched peas. Ladle soup into bowls and top each with lemon creme fraiche.

Per serving: 250 cal., 43% (108 cal.) from fat; 11 g protein; 12 g fat (7.1 g sat.); 26 g carbo (2.7 g fiber); 118 mg sodium; 27 mg chol.

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Scallop and Sugar Snap Pea Stir-Fry

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

MAKES: 4 servings

NOTES: Serve with cooked rice.

 12 ounces sugar snap peas, trimmed and blanched (see "How to Prepare
     Peas," page 153)
 12 ounces sea scallops, rinsed and patted dry
1/2 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth
  2 tablespoons mirin or rice wine
  1 tablespoon cornstarch
  2 tablespoons vegetable oil
  2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onions
  1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/4 teaspoon hot chile flakes
1/2 cup slivered fresh basil leaves

1. Cut sugar snap peas on the diagonal into about 1/2-inch lengths. Cut scallops in half to form half-moon shapes.

2. In a small bowl or glass measure, whisk chicken broth, mirin, and cornstarch until well blended.

3. Pour oil into a 12-inch nonstick frying pan or 14-inch wok over high heat. When hot, stir in green onions, garlic, and chile flakes. Stir until fragrant, 30 to 45 seconds.

4. Add scallops and cook, stirring occasionally, until surface of scallops is mostly opaque, about 2 minutes. Stir in sugar snap peas, and pour in broth mixture. Cook, stirring, until sauce is thick and glossy and scallops are opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 2 to 3 minutes.

5. Stir in half the basil, then pour into a serving bowl and sprinkle with remaining basil.