Pollo a la Mexicana: updated south-of-the-border chicken dishes

Sunset, May, 2004 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Memories of his mother's cooking inspired Eligio Hernandez to re-create the cozy chicken dishes that he ate growing up in the state of Veracruz in Mexico in his new home in Campbell, California. Staple seasonings of her kitchen--chiles, cumin, garlic, mint, oregano, cilantro, and onion--generously infuse his homestyle dishes with a warm spiciness and herbal aroma.

But Hernandez has streamlined these Mexican classics. Arroz con pollo is lightened up by removing the skin from chili-rubbed chicken thighs, which cook on a bed of mint-scented rice for a dish reminiscent of paella. Assemble-your-own roast chicken tacos become quicker and easier--but keep their savory flavor--when you butterfly the chicken before roasting it over onions. And skinned chicken breasts steep in a spiced broth for a light, stylish Mexican chicken soup. Perfect for casual entertaining or a family meal, these dishes are updated renditions of traditional favorites.

Chicken with Rice (Arroz con Pollo)

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PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours

MAKES: 4 servings

    8 chicken thighs (about 6 oz. each)
    1 tablespoon chili powder About 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
    1 white onion (8 oz.), peeled and chopped
    3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
    2 fresh jalapeno chiles (1 1/2 to 2 oz. total), rinsed, stemmed, and
      thinly sliced (see "Chile Heat," page 132)
1 1/2 cups long-grain white rice
    2 cups fat-skimmed chicken broth
    1 can (14 oz.) stewed tomatoes
1 3/4 cups (9 oz.) frozen corn kernels
  1/3 cup chopped fresh mint leaves Salt

1. Remove skin from chicken. Trim off and discard excess fat. Rinse chicken and pat dry. Rub chili powder all over pieces.

2. Set a 12-inch frying pan with 2-inch-tall sides or a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add oil and tilt pan to coat bottom. Add chicken in a single layer and turn as needed to brown on both sides, 10 to 12 minutes total (if necessary, brown in two batches, adding 1 more tablespoon oil if needed). Transfer to a plate.

3. Add onion, garlic, and jalapeno chiles to pan; stir often until onion is limp, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add rice; stir often until rice is opaque, about 3 minutes. Add broth, tomatoes (including juices), corn, and 1/4 cup mint. Bring to a boil over high heat.

4. Lay chicken pieces slightly apart in pan. Reduce heat to low, cover pan, and cook until rice is tender to bite and chicken is no longer pink at the bone (cut to test), 25 to 30 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining mint and add salt to taste.

Per serving: 651 cal., 17% (108 cal.) from fat; 51 g protein; 12 g fat (2.6 g sat.); 83 g carbo (5.1 g fiber); 456 mg sodium; 161 mg chol.

Roast Chicken and Onion Tacos

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours

MAKES: 16 tacos

NOTES: As a quick alternative to the fresh green salsa, you can use purchased salsa. Serve with a cabbage slaw dressed with lime juice, oil, and toasted cumin seeds.

  5 white onions (8 oz. each)
  2 tablespoons minced fresh oregano leaves or 1 tablespoon dried
    oregano
    About 1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
  2 tablespoons olive oil
  1 chicken (4 lb.)
 12 to 16 corn tortillas (6 in.) Green salsa (recipe follows; see notes)

1. Peel onions and cut lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick wedges. Place in a 12-by 17-inch roasting pan with 2-inch-tall sides. In a small bowl, mix oregano, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Add half the oregano mixture and 1 tablespoon olive oil to onions; mix well. Set one or two wire racks (overlap, if necessary) over onions, extending beyond pan sides so racks are not resting directly on onions.

2. Remove giblets from chicken; discard or reserve for other uses. With poultry shears or sturdy scissors, cut along one side of the backbone of chicken. Pull bird open and lay, skin side up, on a flat surface; push down to crack bones slightly so bird lies reasonably flat. Pull off and discard lumps of fat. Rinse bird well on both sides; pat dry. Rub remaining 1 tablespoon oil and oregano mixture all over chicken. Set, skin side up, on racks over onions.

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3. Roast in a 425[degrees] oven until a thermometer reaches 170[degrees] when inserted through thickest part of chicken breast to bone and 180[degrees] when inserted through thickest part of thigh at joint, 50 to 60 minutes. Set chicken on a board or rimmed platter and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Remove racks from pan. If onions are not browned, stir and continue roasting until browned, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Scrape browned bits off pan bottom and stir into onions; spoon onions into a bowl.

4. Wrap tortillas in plastic wrap and heat in a microwave oven on full power (100%) just until hot and steamy, 45 seconds to 1 minute.

5. Serve chicken with onions, tortillas, and salsa. To eat, cut chicken off bone in chunks or slices and let guests wrap chicken in tortillas with onions, green salsa, and salt to taste.

Per taco: 262 cal., 48% (126 cal.) from fat; 17 g protein; 14 g fat (3.6 g sat.); 17 g carbo (2.3 g fiber); 246 mg sodium; 58 mg chol.