Lavender in bloom: the West's prettiest herb is more versatile than you think

Sunset, May, 2004 by Jim McCausland, Lauren Bonar Swezey

You may know lavender by its scent, but that's only one of this herb's endearing qualities.

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Lavender is easy to grow in the West's warm, dry climates, requiring little in the way of pest control, fertilizer, and, once established, water. Its scent is soothing, which is why its essential oil is a prized ingredient in many aromatherapy products, such as lotions and candles. And you can even cook with lavender.

Perhaps that's why lavender farms are carpeting the landscape in increasing numbers. Their owners are usually in it for love, not money, but they have plenty to sell: plants in full flower and lavender products by the bushel.

This month is a fine time to visit farms in California (wait until June in the Northwest) to see lavender in bloom. At home, plant a favorite variety, fill a vase with dried wands, or experiment with it in the kitchen. Fill your senses, and you'll really get to know lavender.

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Grow it like a pro

Throughout much of the West, few plants are easier to grow than lavender. Though most varieties perform best within 100 miles of the Pacific Ocean, English lavender and its allies (the ones most often used in cooking) can tolerate moderately cold and snowy winters (see "Choose the Right Varieties," page 158, for climate information).

Choosing plants: Look for cutting-grown, rather than seed-started, plants (most nurseries can provide this information), especially for hedges, since the ultimate size of seed-grown lavender can vary. Most kinds will thrive for about 12 years before they need replacing.

Planting: Lavender needs full sun and well-drained soil. Where soil drains poorly, grow lavender in raised beds. Set full-size varieties 3 to 4 feet apart, dwarf types 18 inches apart. Mulch with decomposed granite or gravel, not compost.

Watering, feeding: Irrigate deeply but infrequently, when the soil is almost dry. Plants require little or no fertilizer.

Pruning: Do this every year immediately after bloom. Cut back 2- to 4-foot-tall varieties by a third, low-growing types by 2 to 4 inches. If you won't be harvesting the blooms of repeat performers, such as Spanish lavender, cut off faded flowers to keep new ones coming.

Harvesting: Snip stems when the bottom third of their blossoms are open; not all blooms are ready to cut at the same time. Remove leaves from the stems, gather stems in bunches, and secure each bundle with a rubber band. Use no more than 100 stems per bundle.

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Flavor your foods

Lavender buds can be used in the kitchen in many amazing ways. Add them to salad dressings, steep them in honey, mix them with spices to make a seasoning rub for salmon and lamb, use in breads and cookies--you can even add them to chocolate desserts.

The secret is to use lavender discreetly, as you would the right amount of perfume. You want to contribute an elusive, light, floral note that makes food taste distinctively different, but subtly so. Too much lavender can overwhelm other flavors and come off tasting like cheap cologne. Acceptance of lavender in cuisine varies, so start with the minimum, then taste before adding more.

Sharon Shipley, author of The Lavender Cookbook (Running Press, 2004; $17) and owner of Mon Cheri Cooking School and Caterers in Sunnyvale, California (408/736-0892), prefers the 'Provence' variety for its pure, intense flavor. Other kinds tend to be more subtle; some have off tastes. To intensify flavor, Shipley grinds dried lavender buds in a spice mill (you can also use a blender) to release the plant's essential oil. She uses lavender effectively in the berry crisp pictured above right.

Be sure to cook only with pesticide-free lavenders grown for culinary use. You may find them in the spice section of specialty food stores, spice stores, and some supermarkets; the Spice Hunter sells French culinary lavender in supermarkets (visit www.spicehunter.com for a list of retailers). We used lavender from Rancho Alegre in Pescadero, California (www.ranchoalegre-lavender.com or 877/446-3567).--LINDA LAU ANUSASANANAN

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Lavender Berry Crisp

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 1/4 hours

MAKES: 8 servings

NOTES: Sharon Shipley uses the floral notes of lavender to complement berries in this delicious crisp. Use the minimum amount of lavender for a subtle accent, more if you love lavender. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

    2 to 3 tablespoons dried culinary 'Provence' lavender buds (see
      notes)
    2 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca
1 1/4 cups sugar
    2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
    4 cups blueberries, rinsed
    4 cups raspberries, rinsed
    3 tablespoons lemon juice
    1 cup all-purpose flour
  1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
  1/2 cup chopped almonds

1. In a blender, whirl lavender and tapioca until finely ground. Pour into a large bowl. Stir in 3/4 cup sugar and the cinnamon. Add blueberries, raspberries, and lemon juice; mix gently. Pour into a shallow 2 1/2- to 3-quart baking dish.