Road to enchantment; Santa Fe, Taos, ancient wonders, and sublime food: take the ultimate drive around New Mexico

Sunset, Nov, 2004 by Lawrence W. Cheek

Taos/Taos Pueblo

Taos deserves at least a day; There are six engaging art and historical museums, and 4 miles northeast of town is Taos Pueblo (on Veteran's Hwy.; 505/758-1028), the Southwest's most architecturally dramatic living pueblo. Also see San Francisco de Asis Porish (off State 68 in Ranchos de Taos; 505/758-2754). New Mexico's most beautiful mission church. Contact the Taos County Chamber of Commerce (www.taoschamber.com or 800/732-8267). In nearby Truchas, visit Pierre Delottre Gallery (1632A State 76; 505/689-1005).

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Chaco Culture N.H.P.

This national historical park is the most monumental and baffling pre-Columbian "city" in what we now call the United States. Every route to the park involves long distances and gravel roads, but you won't regret the effort. Allow four to six hours in the park, and bring your own food and water. Primitive campsites $10. Off U.S. 550 at County Rd. 7900; 505/786-7014 ext. 221.

El Malpais N.M.

This national monument (off 1-40 at exit 85; 505/783-4774) offers fascinating hiking over volcanic flows and cinder cones on the west side, and New Mexico's largest easily accessible natural arch on the east side; check weather conditions before going. On your way south from here, consider a stop at Pie Town's two estimable pastry establishments; the Pie-O-Neer Cafe (call ahead; mile marker 56/57 off U.S. 60; 505/772-2711) and the Daily Pie (mile marker 56 off U.S. 60; 505/772-2700).

Acoma Pueblo

The "Sky City" may be the oldest continuously inhabited settlement (at least 1,000 years) in North America. On 1-40 at exit 102, 55 miles west of Albuquerque; 800/747-0181.

Catwalk National Recreation Trail

This steel trail clutches the side of Whitewater Canyon in the Gilo National Forest. In Whitewater Recreation Area on State 174 (Catwalk Rd.), 5 miles east of U.S. 180 at Glenwood; 505/539-2481.

Silver City

A retired mining town with Victorian architecture, a cluster of downtown galleries, and, at the Western New Mexico University Museum (off West St. at 10th St.; 505/538-6386), the world's best collection of Mimbres pottery.

Sleep and eat

Albuquerque

Best Western Rio Grande Inn. Close to Old Town. 173 rooms from $98. 1015 Rio Grande Blvd. N.W.; 800/959-4726.

La Posada de Albuquerque. Downtown hotel, built in 1939, offers classic Southwest style. 114 rooms from $89. 125 Second St. N.W.; 800/777-5732.

Sadie's Cocinita. Its ferocious salsa is a favorite. $. 6230 Fourth St. N.W.; 505/345-5339.

Santa Fe

El Rey Inn. Near downtown, and a good value for Santa Fe. 86 rooms from $89, 1862 Cerrillos Rd.; 800/521-1349.

Inn on the Alameda. Quiet luxury inn, east of the Plaza. 71 rooms from $159. 303 E. Alameda St.; 505/984-2121.

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Cafe Pasqual's. Wildly delicious but crowded; plan for an odd hour. $$$. 121 Don Gaspar Ave.; 505/983-9340.

Tia Sophia's. Best New Mexican breakfasts in Santa Fe. $. 210 San Francisco St. W.; 505/983-9880.

Silver City

Bear Mountain Lodge. A 1928 school turned into a bird-watchers' inn operated by the Nature Conservancy. 11 rooms from $115. 2251 Cottage San Rd., 3 miles north of Silver City; 877/620-2327.