Savory spread: salt cod brandade makes a comeback

Sunset, Nov, 2004 by Jerry Anne Di Vecchio

Humble old dishes have a way of coming back with glory. Salt cod brandade, a homey blend of preserved cod and creamy mashed potatoes, traditional in southern Europe, is showing up on French-leaning restaurant menus all over. And the dried salt cod itself is readily available in Italian delis and gourmet supermarkets. With radishes and French bread, the spread makes a great appetizer.

Salt Cod Brandade

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes, plus at least 1 day to soak fish

MAKES: 8 appetizer servings

NOTES: Salt cod (sometimes labeled baccala or bacalao) must be soaked for at least 1 day--2 for milder flavor.

  8 ounces dried salt cod (see notes)
  1 onion (8 oz.), peeled and chopped
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
    About 3 tablespoons butter
  1 cup fat-skimmed chicken broth
  1 pound thin-skinned potatoes,
    peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
1/2 cup whipping cream
  1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper Salt
  1 to 2 tablespoons drained capers
    About 2 tablespoons minced parsley

1. Rinse salt cod well under cool running water. Place in a 1 1/2- to 2-quart jar and cover with water; cover jar airtight and chill 1 to 2 days (see notes), draining and replacing water at least six times. Drain fish. In a 1 1/2- to 2-quart pan, cover salt cod with water; bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer until fish flakes easily, 5 to 15 minutes. Drain; when cool enough to handle, remove and discard any bones and skin.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

2. Meanwhile, in a 10-inch frying pan or 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, frequently stir onion and thyme in 2 tablespoons butter until onion is browned, 6 to 10 minutes. Scrape into a bowl.

3. Add broth and potatoes to pan; bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat, cover, and simmer gently until potatoes mash easily when pressed, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain potatoes.

4. In a food processor (at least 1 qt.) or bowl, combine fish, onion mixture, potatoes, cream, mustard, and pepper. Whirl or beat with a mixer until potatoes are mashed; season to taste with salt.

5. In a buttered shallow 1-quart casserole or four buttered 1-cup ramekins, spread cod mixture level (equally in ramekins) with a spatula, then swirl the top with the tip of the spatula.

6. Break about 1 tablespoon butter into tiny pieces and dot cod mixture evenly, lodging pieces in the crevices.

7. Bake in a 400[degrees] oven until golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Sprinkle with capers and parsley. Serve hot.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES CARRIER