Rolling on the river: Sunset staffers went after whitewater—and came back with lots of advice. Plus: best rivers for beginners

Sunset, May, 2005 by Alison Aves

On a two-day guided rafting trip along the South Fork of the American River, Sunset staffers soaked up California's Gold Country sunshine in a delicious combination of thrill-seeking adventure and laid-back camping trip. We ranged from first-timers to aspiring river rats, but teamwork and excellent guides made for smooth sailing. Everyone was exhilarated by the thumps and splooshes of the river and appreciative of the hearty meals prepared by our American River Recreation guides, who shifted from being rugged and boisterous on the rapids to being efficient and skilled in the camp kitchen. Your outfitter will keep you cared for and well informed too, but we thought you'd benefit from a few lessons we learned before you take on the tumbling, rushing rapids of the West's great rivers.

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Gear up

Your comfort can range from too cold to too hot within minutes--and everything will get wet--so wear lightweight synthetic fibers that have a wide temperature range and dry quickly. Here's a packing list.

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* Snug-fitting hat with a brim

* Waterproof, sweatproof sunscreen

* Sunglasses with a strap

* Short-sleeved top

* Loose-fitting, long-sleeved top for layering

* Knee-length shorts, or pants

* Waterproof sandals with heel straps (no flip-flops), aqua shoes, or old sneakers

* Wetsuit and splash jacket if it's really cold (many outfitters will provide these when conditions warrant them)

* Waterproof disposable camera

* Waterproof watch (but leave rings and other jewelry behind to avoid blisters or loss)

Head out

The right posture not only helps avoid a sore back, it also means better control of the raft by the team as a whole--especially important when you start plunging through rapids.

1 Sit. Perch on one of the raft's side tubes; tuck your feet into the raft's straps or floor pockets, if available, or under the thwarts (the tubes that cross the raft).

2 Grip the paddle. Put the hand that's toward the center of the raft securely over the T-grip at the top of the paddle, and keep it there at all times (so you don't thwack your raftmates). Put the other hand near the blade.

3 Stroke. Coordinate with the person in front of you to avoid knocking paddles. When forward paddling, slice your paddle into the water in front of you and pull it toward your hip like you're trying to retrieve a leaf on the surface. Back paddling is actually a stronger stroke because of the way your back and leg muscles are used for leverage.

Maneuver like a pro

Understand your guide's commands, follow them quickly and accurately, and your team will navigate the rapids like a well-oiled machine.

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* "Left!" means the people on the left side of the boat back paddle and those on the right side forward paddle.

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* "Right!" means the people on the right side of the boat back paddle and those on the left side forward paddle.

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* "Hard!" means do it twice as fast and with all your strength, usually because there's an obstacle in the water that you must maneuver around.

* "Stop!" tells everyone to pull their paddles out of the water.

Prepare to swim

You may find yourself in the river without benefit of a raft between you and the water, either because the guide has said you're in a safe rapid to "swim" or because strong turbulence has bounced you overboard. Either way, follow some basic safety guidelines and you'll make the most of it.

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* Keep your head and feet up. Lift your legs in front of you so your body is parallel to the surface; this will prevent your feet from getting caught on rocks beneath the surface and provide a shock absorber if you collide with a boulder or log.

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* Face downstream. You need to see where you're going, and if there are waves, you can time taking a breath between them.

* Stay toward the middle of the river. The water is deepest there. Use your arms in a backstroke motion to steer if necessary. If your raft is out of sight, guide yourself toward a calm spot where you can safely float and wait for assistance.

* Listen to your guide. He or she will tell you when to approach the raft and on which side, then will haul you in.

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Fight to win

It's inevitable, even for pacifists: At some point, you'll clash with other rafts in a water fight. So you might as well come out on top. Here's how.

* Trust no one. The raft with which you were exchanging merry banter moments ago can inexplicably turn on you. Clues to an impending attack: a raft that is too quiet; a raft that appears to be waiting for yours to draw closer; a raft that is trying extraordinarily hard to catch up to you; exchanged whispers and sidelong glances; a gleam in someone's eye.

* Use your weapons wisely. Once the fight has begun, use the bottom one-fourth of the paddle to chip water fast and hard in an upward arc toward the other raft. The back-paddle splash (see "Head Out," page 159) is your most potent weapon. If using a bucket, fill it only one-quarter full to maximize your tossing power.