Carmel's quiet season: explore the original art town by the sea on a poster budget

Sunset, Nov, 2005 by Lisa Taggart

My friend Sara is the perfect traveling partner--she's up for anything, never complains, loves food and wine, and doesn't wake up too early in the morning. So when she and I were both feeling overworked and under-relaxed, we headed off to Carmel-by-the-Sea for a weekend of rejuvenation. And because we didn't want a big credit card bill to undo the mellowing, we set out to spend less than $400, including tax and tips.

This is not usually a realistic goal here--after all, Carmel was the prototype for the quaint, artsy village catering to those who like to shoppe till they droppe.

By going off-season, though, we saved a lot. The town's lodging prices drop nicely in November and December, staying pleasantly low until the big Pebble Beach golf tournament in early February sends prices all over the Monterey Peninsula soaring.

We splurged on good food, but we kept costs down by assembling our own picnic one evening. And we maximized our renewal factor by spending lots of time on the beach--which, even in late fall, is utterly beautiful and completely free.

DAY 1: Spiritual enlightenment?

Our blue-and-white room at the Normandy Inn was small but cheery, and it didn't hurt that it was close to the shore. The off-season rate made it a great deal: For two nights with 10 percent hotel tax, the tab came to $173.80. We also left a $5 room tip.

We liked the Candlelight Inn too--the room we checked out had a small bathroom, but the corner window offered a wedge of ocean view. For discounts at other hotels, ask about the Holiday Bounty for Monterey County specials that are offered through the Monterey County Convention & Visitors Bureau (holiday specials available Nov 1-Dec 31; www.montereyinfo.org or 888/221-1010).

After checking in at our inn, Sara wanted to test her new running shoes, so we jogged down Ocean Avenue to Carmel Beach. People were out along the long stretch of white shoreline, surfing, walking their dogs, and sitting on blankets on the sand. And the waves were Carmel's trademark ethereal blue. One very tan, skinny man passed us, talking to his female companion. "To really achieve spiritual enlightenment," he told her, "you have to give up meat."

Sara, a vehemently reformed vegetarian, snorted.

The trip back, all uphill, was a little trickier. We ran some and walked some, taking a detour down Carmelo Street and Camino Real to check out the neighborhood's shake-roofed cottages, overhanging trees, and pretty gardens.

Then we did some window shopping downtown. I had thought we'd only find gimmick-laden tourist shops, but I was happily proved wrong. We liked the gorgeous furniture and garden gear at Homescapes, Carmel, and we also admired the photos at Weston Gallery.

The beach guy's comment had sparked Sara's appetite, so she decided we should go to Kurt's Carmel Chop House for dinner. The steakhouse (located next to Carmel Sands Lodge) has steaks and chops, of course, plus burgers, seafood, and a bar and wine menu. It was a splurge--totaling about $54 with tip--but we had excellent Kobe beef burgers.

DAY 2: Lost in the fog

The clock was already in the double digits when I slipped away to the Carmel Coffee & Cocoa Bar for a supplement to the hotel's breakfast. I got a latte for Sara and chose from 12 different kinds of hot chocolate for me, settling on a deluxe Scharffen Berger mocha--now that's a classy way to get caffeine.

Finally awake, we decided to drive inland to explore Carmel Valley. The cloud cover had burned off, and the fields were green with fresh grass and dotted with live oaks. In the town of Carmel Valley, we stopped at Chateau Julien Wine Estate, where you get a free tasting of Merlots and Chardonnays while taking a 30-minute tour of the French-Swiss estate. At Heller Estate, we tried organically grown wines and appreciated the whimsical sculptures. After wine tasting, we needed a light lunch, so we had a salad and sandwich at Corkscrew Bistro and Wine Bar.

We stopped at Garland Ranch Regional Park on the way back to Carmel, following a trail into a meadow and then up a forested hillside covered in oaks and bay laurels. It was a shaded, relaxing hike, and once we'd headed out, we didn't see anyone else on the trails.

Back in town, Sara was already thinking about our next meal. We assembled a magnificent picnic dinner at the Cheese Shop in Carmel Plaza. The wine and cheese selection was impressive, particularly for such a small space, and the staff kept offering samples to aid our decisions. We ended up with a Monterey County Pinot Gris, a sheep's-milk cheese, a fig spread, olives, and a crusty loaf of bread.

We drove to Carmel River State Beach and set up our feast on a big driftwood log. The air was charged with ozone. It made everything--the wine, the cheese, the spread--taste even better. A crowd of goggle-eyed seagulls remained, impatient, at a polite yet expectant distance. But the food was so good, there weren't many crumbs left when we were done.

We'd saved on dinner, so we could spend on entertainment. Because Carmel is known for its arty spirit and local theater, I'd gotten us tickets for a play at the 35-year-old Indoor Forest Theatre. We parked back at our hotel, and I confidently led us off into the darkening night. Mist was collecting into fog, adding an eerie atmosphere to the residential neighborhoods. Half an hour later, when the evening sky had turned from gray to black, we were still wandering around the streets. Spotting a woman who was getting into her car, I decided to ask for directions.