Give a glorious corn feast: butter and salt for the purists, imaginative seasonings for the adventurous, a potluck spread for all - includes related article on seasonings for corn

Sunset, June, 1999 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

For the last 31 years, Neil and Susan Hall and Allan and Barbara Fredrickson have taken corn to the ultimate level in eating, sharing the experience annually with about 150 friends. The process begins in late spring at the Halls' nursery in Mount Vernon, Washington, when they plant four 200-foot-long rows of corn. The variety they currently favor is Platinum Lady, a sweet white hybrid well suited to their climate.

Then, on party day, they serve up a feast of succulent corn cooked within minutes of harvest - right in the field where it grew.

As 500 or so ears of corn are stripped from their stalks, guests lend a hand to husk them. In a 32-quart pan of water boiling over a powerful portable propane burner, Neil cooks a batch of 20 ears about every four minutes. And how quickly these sweet, tender ears disappear, as one and all chomp into tight rows of plump kernels, squirting sweet, milky nectar.

The rest of the meal, for those who can manage, is roast chickens and a potluck spread of entrees, salads, and desserts, which the guests help supply.

Sounds like fun, but you didn't plant any corn? Not to worry. Farm stands and urban farmers' markets are a ready resource for contemporary varieties of corn bred to stay sweet for days, not just minutes. You can follow the simple Mount Vernon menu plan. But to focus due attention on the corn, we suggest adding a collection of spreads and sprinkles to enhance it.

Corn for a Crowd

PREP AND COOK TIME: ABout 10 minutes

NOTES: If cooking more than 1 batch of corn, use tongs to lift out hot ears, then add more to boiling water. Replenish water as needed, and return to boiling before adding more corn.

MAKES: 12 ears; allow at least 2 or 3 for a serving

12 ears corn (7 to 8 in.)

Flavor bar (recipes at right)

Butter or margarine

Salt and pepper

1. In a covered 10- to 12-quart pan over high heat, bring 5 to 6 quarts water to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, pull off and discard corn-husks and silks. Immerse ears in boiling water. Cover and cook until corn is hot, 3 to 5 minutes.

3. Drain, or lift ears from water with tongs. Season hot corn with choices from the flavor bar, or butter ears and add salt and pepper to taste.

Per unseasoned ear of corn: 77 cal., 13% (9.9 cal.) from fat; 2.9 g protein; 1.1 g fat (0.2 g sat.); 17 g carbo (2.9 g fiber); 14 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

10 seasonings to spread or sprinkle

Select 1 or more of the following combinations. Each covers at least a dozen ears of corn.

Chili salt and lime. Mix 1 tablespoon salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder. Cut 3 limes into wedges. Rub corn with lime wedge, then sprinkle with chili salt to taste.

Per serving: 1.7 cal., 53% 10.9 cal.) from fat; 0 g protein; 0.1 g fat 10 g sat.); 0.4 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 585 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Sesame teriyaki. Mix 3/4 cup purchased thick teriyaki sauce or glaze and 1 tablespoon Asian (toasted) sesame oil. In an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir about 1/3 cup sesame seed until golden, about 3 minutes. Brush corn with sauce and sprinkle with sesame seed.

Per serving: 45 cal., 56% (25 cal.) from fat; 1.7 g protein; 2.8 g fat 10.4 g sat.); 3.8 g carbo (0.6 g fiber); 691 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Pesto. In a blender or food processor, combine 1 1/3 cups fresh bash leaves, 2/3 cup olive oil, 1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese, and 2 cloves garlic; whirl until mixture is smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste. Spread on corn.

Per serving: 120 cal., 98% (117 cal.) from fat; 1.2 g protein; 13 g fat (2 g sat.); 0.6 g carbo (0.4 g fiber); 41 mg sodium; 1.7 mg chol.

Mexican cheese and chili. Mix 1/2 cup mayonnaise with 2 tablespoons milk. Put 3/4 cup finely crumbled cotija or grated parmesan cheese and 1 tablespoon ground dried California or New Mexico chilies or chili powder in individual bowls. Brush corn with mayonnaise mixture and sprinkle with cheese and chilies.

Per serving: 86 cal., 91% (78 cal.) from fat; 1.5 g protein; 8.7 g fat (2 g sat.); 0.7 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 141 mg sodium; 9.7 mg chol.

Cilantro-chili-garlic butter. Mix 3/4 cup (3/8 lb.) melted butter or margarine with 1/3 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro, 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons minced fresh jalapeno chili, and 2 or 3 pressed or minced cloves garlic. Brush on corn.

Per serving: 103 cal., 96% (99 cal.) from fat; 0.2 g protein; 11 g fat (7.2 g sat.); 0.3 g carbo (0 g fiber); 117 mg sodium; 31 mg chol.

Lemon-thyme butter. Mix 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) melted butter or margarine with 1/4 cup minced chives or green onions, 1 tablespoon minced fresh or 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel, and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Brush butter on corn.

Per serving: 69 cal., 100% (69 cal.) from fat; 0.1 g protein; 7.7 g fat (4.8 g sat.); 0.3 g carbo (0.l g fiber); 79 mg sodium; 21 mg chol.

Mustard-tarragon sauce. Mix 6 tablespoons olive oil, 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 1 1/2 tablespoons minced shallot, 2 teaspoons chopped fresh or 3/4 teaspoon dried tarragon, and 1 pressed or minced clove garlic. Add salt and pepper to taste. Brush on corn.