Sheer drama: raised by lava, shaped by ice, Oregon's Steens Mountain is pure spectacle - includes related article on Steens Mountain travel planner

Sunset, June, 1999 by Bonnie Henderson

It's a long way from Oregon's Willamette Valley to Steens Mountain, and dinner at the Frenchglen Hotel is served promptly at 6:30. So I gunned it, motoring east toward the real West as fast as the law allows. Storms were sweeping the Great Basin that day; lightning fingered the rimrock all around and sent crackles through the farm report over the car radio. I made it to the tiny town of Frenchglen - one block of clapboard buildings huddled at the mountain's base - with 10 minutes to spare.

Opening the car door, I was greeted by the scents of sage and storm, and the sound of cottonwoods rustling in the wind. I took one deep breath, and the tempest of urban stress that had propelled me more than six hours down those long, straight highways rolled over and rumbled off into the high desert.

Time takes its time on Steens Mountain. It's been 10 million years since surging lava shoved this big block of earth more than 5,000 feet above the surrounding desert. Then, tens of thousands of years ago, glaciers carved great U-shaped gorges in the mountain's flank: Kiger, Big Indian, Little Blitzen.

A century ago, Pete French began running cattle on the mountain, eventually building one of the largest cattle ranches in the country. Cattle still roam Steens, and horses are still the preferred mode of travel here. But a good gravel road leads cars nearly to the mountain's summit, and enterprising hikers can explore the mountain's trail-free gorges on foot. Much of Steens Mountain has been proposed for wilderness designation; until Congress decides yea or nay, it's being managed as if it already were.

Recent upgrading of the 66-mile, mostly gravel loop route from Frenchglen to the top of Steens Mountain makes it possible to tour the mountain by car in an afternoon. But you'll be glad if you take more time: a full day at least, or better yet, several days. In spring - which begins in April and lasts into July on the 9,733-foot mountain's upper reaches - there are wildflowers; in fall, groves of golden quaking aspens seem to set the hillsides afire. The longer you linger, the better your chances of glimpsing wild horses, bighorn sheep, or pronghorn antelope.

And if you missed it your first night, the Frenchglen Hotel will surely be serving its marionberry cobbler the next.

Steens Mountain planner

Steens Mountain is in southeastern Oregon near Malheur National Wildlife Refuge, sandwiched between the Alvord Desert and Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge. Burns (the closest large town) is about 220 miles from Portland, 200 miles from Eugene, and 140 miles from Boise. From U.S. 20 in Burns, take State 205 south.

The entire 66-mile loop route on the mountain is usually snow-free from early July through late October. Most of it is smooth gravel, though one rough stretch on the upper end of the south leg requires slow going. Quick weather changes are common high on the mountain. And there are no services along the way, so fill the tank, pack a lunch and some extra clothes, and carry a spare.

Area code is 541 unless noted.

Camping

Page Springs Campground. Just outside Frenchglen, the Bureau of Land Management property is a lovely draw alongside the Donner und Blitzen River.

May 1-October 31; $6, no reservations. BLM office in Burns; 573-4400.

Steens Mountain Resort. The sites at this privately owned "resort" are arrayed on a barren hillside, but the place has a certain funky charm - along with showers and laundry facilities. Tent sites $10, RV hookups $18, rustic accommodations $55; reservations recommended; (800) 542-3765.

South Steens, Fish Lake, Jackman Park. Situated up on the mountain, these three smaller campgrounds are more primitive, and more pristine. South Steens, mid-May-October; others, July 1-October. $6, no reservations. BLM; 573-4400.

Guided trips

Frenchglen Mercantile. In yet another venture, the Mercantile folks are launching naturalist-led van trips on Sterns Mountain, as well as guided fly-fishing, spring birding, and archaeology outings. From $50 per day. 493-2738.

High Desert Outfitters. Multiday hunting and fishing trips (including $300-a-day outings to a private reservoir to angle for 30-inch trout) plus scenic driving tours and overnight horse pack trips. (888) 486-8444.

Oregon Llamas. Commercial llama packers and outfitters. (888) 722-5262 or www.packllama.com.

Steens Mountain Packers. Three- to five-day horse pack trips into the Little Blitzen, Big Indian, and Kiger gorges, half-and full-day trail rides, and a variety of other adventures, from a genuine cattle drive to helicopter tours and hell-hiking and -fishing. (800) 977-3995.

Hiking

There are no formal hiking trails on Steens Mountain; hikers follow spontaneous footpaths or old four-wheel-drive vehicle roads, or they simply follow the river's path up one of the mountain's broad gorges, returning as they came.

It's a short walk on a gated road from the loop road to the summit, and another mile or so farther, down a primitive path, to Wildhorse Lake.