True west: from Cheyenne to Cody, the frontier's heart beats strong in Wyoming - includes related articles on Wyoming travel planner and Jackson Hole

Sunset, June, 1999 by Peter Fish

Nelson Museum of the West. New, private museum with Western art and cowboy memorabilia. 1714 Carey, $3; 635 - 76 70.

Terry Bison Ranch. Seven miles south of town, this working ranch offers horseback rides, wagon tours, and chuck-wagon dinners. Memorial Day-Labor Day. Off I-25, prices vary; 634-4171.

Wyoming State Museum. Newly reopened, the museum has exhibits on Wyoming history. 2301 Central Ave., free; 777- 7022.

LODGING

Hotels and motels fill up during Frontier Days; book early. For information, contact Cheyenne Area Convention and Visitors Bureau, 309 W. Lincolnway; (800) 426-5009.

A. Drummond's Ranch Bed & Breakfast (399 Happy Jack Rd.; 634-6042; from $70) is near good hiking 20 miles west of Cheyenne. Two Victorian-era inns near downtown are Nagle Warren Mansion B&B (222 E. 17th St.; 800/8t 1-2610; from $95) and Rainsford Inn (219 E. 18th St.; 638-2337; from $60).

DINING

They're in a motel (Hitching Post Inn), but Carriage Court and Cheyenne Cattle Company (1700 W. Lincolnway; 800/221-0125) are two of the best bets for fine dining. In a restored 19th-century building, Lexie's Cafe (216 E. 17th; 638-8712) is good for breakfasts and lunchtime burgers.

SHOPPING

For Western wear, head to the Wrangler (1518 Capitol Ave.; 634-3048). Manitou Gallery (1715 Carey; 635-0019) features Western contemporary art. Also good is Deselms Fine Art (210 W. Lincolnway; 800/832-0607).

Laramie

ATTRACTIONS

Laramie Plains Museum. Victorian home of Wyoming pioneer Edward Ivinson, now a museum surrounded by gardens. 603 Ivinson Ave., $4, $2 students; 742-4448.

University of Wyoming. The Geological Museum (S.H. Knight Geology Bldg.; 766-4218) boasts a notable dinosaur collection. Housed in an Antoine Predock-designed building, American Heritage Center (2111 Willett Dr.; 766-4114) has a small but choice selection of Western art.

Wyoming Territorial Prison and Old West Park. Excellent attraction, with historic buildings grouped into Old West Frontier Town. Nearby, the prison has been turned into a museum; evening melodramas at Horse Barn Dinner Theatre. 975 Snowy Ridge Rd., $5.50, $3.25 ages 6-13; melodrama and dinner $25.95, $16.95 ages 6-13, free (no meal) ages under 6; (800) 845-2287.

LODGING

Contact Albany County Tourism Board, 800 S. Third St.; (800) 445-5303.

DINING

The Overland (100 Ivinson; 721-2800) specializes in wild game and has a good wine list. A nice stop for coffee is Coal Creek Coffee Company (110 Grand Ave.; 745-7737).

SHOPPING

This is a college town; good bookstores are plentiful. Among them: Second Story Bookstore (105 Ivinson; 7454423) and Chickering Bookstore (203 S. Second St.; 742-8609). Mountain Woods Furniture (209 S. Second; 745-3515) sells handmade lodgepole furniture.

HIKING

Vedauwoo, 15 miles east, has easy trails among striking rock formations. To the west, the Snowy Range has a fine assortment of trails among 10,000-foot peaks and lakes. For information on both areas, contact Medicine Bow/Routt National Forests (2468 Jackson St.; 745-2300).

Saratoga

LODGING AND DINING