The land of the snow ghosts - Flathead Valley, Montana

Sunset, Dec, 1999 by Jeff Phillips

Superlative skiing, snowmobiling, and scenery make Montana's Flathead Valley a prime winter destination

It's quiet here in the land of the snow ghosts. The clouds that have drifted around the summit of Big Mountain all morning have suddenly closed in, embracing the slopes in a shifting mist that fills the spaces between conifers coated with a thick rime of glimmering white ice. Snow ghosts. As I ski down Gray Wolf run in the eerie half-light of fog, I see how these frigid apparitions got their name.

Stopping at the top of a steep pitch, I note that the silence is profound. No humming lifts. No wind. Not even the sounds of other skiers carving down the run. A single snowflake drifts out of the gloom to land on my glove.

The gift of silence and the company of these strange, icy trees are just two reasons to make the journey to this part of Montana - especially now that increased air service to Big Mountain makes this trip more doable than ever before.

The main reason to come here, of course, is outstanding downhill skiing. With 10 lifts, a 2,500-foot vertical drop, and 3,000 acres of pristine terrain, Big Mountain Ski & Summer Resort has everything from wide, gentle groomers for beginners to steep, untouched powder for experts. Southwest of Kalispell, the new Blacktail Mountain Ski Area is smaller, with easier runs.

Still, skiing isn't the Flathead Valley's only wintertime draw. Wedged into the northwest corner of Montana between the west entrance to Glacier National Park and the north shore of Flathead Lake, the region offers a surprising variety of winter recreation within an hour's drive of the Glacier Park airport. Along with some of Montana's most developed and scenic snowmobile areas, there are miles of marked cross-country ski trails leading into the rugged mountain vastness of Glacier National Park.

Although serious skiers will probably opt to sleep in one of the lodges at the base of Big Mountain's chair lifts, those looking for recreation, restaurants, and nightlife might prefer the old railroad junction of Whitefish, a half-hour drive down the mountain. South of Whitefish is the sprawling town of Kalispell. Still farther south is the riverside village of Bigfork, which gets decked out for the holidays with lights and garlands galore.

But my skiing companions and I have come for winter recreation, so after a couple of days on Big Mountain we rent nordic skis and drive 35 miles northeast to Glacier National Park. With good access to some 60 miles of marked (not groomed) ski trails, the West Glacier gateway is a good base for day trips. We follow Going-to-the-Sun Road, along the snowdrift-covered shores of Lake McDonald, to a parking area where we're greeted by Rusty Wells, a Glacier Park Ski Tours guide.

Skis on, we tackle the 4-mile unplowed road along McDonald Creek to Avalanche Creek, with the ice-etched flanks of Mt. Brown looming above. Wells identifies trees, alerts us to a water ouzel, and points out rabbit, weasel, and mouse tracks in the snow.

Afterward, we defrost over hot toddies in the taproom of newly reopened Belton Chalet in West Glacier. It's the only full-service lodging near the park and a good base for nordic skiers - and for area snowmobilers, I soon find out.

I've never had a burning desire to try snowmobiling, but Flathead Snowmobile Association president Randy Ek isn't one to let me remain indifferent. One minute he's describing how volunteers mark and maintain 200 miles of public trails in the region. Next thing I know, I'm gripping the handlebars of a rented snow machine and following Ek up the smooth, wide bed of the Canyon Creek Trail north of Columbia Falls.

Cruising through a forest fragrant with fir, we turn up a long, snow-dusted canyon that gradually narrows between the flanks of steep mountains. Heated handle grips keep my fingers warm as the speedometer slowly climbs to 35 mph. Signs point out trail junctions, avalanche danger, and a warming hut.

At the top of the canyon, the trail opens into a wide bowl rimmed with icy ridges. Ek has killed his motor and is taking in the view as I pull up. Looking up at the back of Big Mountain, we can see groves of ice-crusted trees near the summit - snow ghosts glittering in the sunlight.

RELATED ARTICLE: Flathead Valley travel planner

Several major airlines, including Delta, Horizon, and Northwest, serve Glacier Park International Airport; Amtrak goes to Whitefish. There's a free shuttle bus between Whitefish and Big Mountain, but you'll need a rental car to go anywhere else.

Two good sources for area lodging information and free visitor guides are the Flathead Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau (800/543-3105 or www.fcvb.org) and the Whitefish Chamber of Commerce (406/8623501 or www.whitefishchamber.com).

Area code is 406 unless noted.

Winter activities

Big Mountain. Special activities include a winter torchlight parade with fireworks down the mountain December 24 and 31, plus two dates yet to be decided. Lift tickets cost $40. Ask about packages and other discounts. For reservations, call (800) 858-4152 or visit www.bigmtn.com.