Celebration roasts - Recipe

Sunset, Dec, 1999 by Elaine Johnson

Two classics accommodate an elegant dinner for 4 or a feast for 18

* A beautiful roast is pure tabletop drama. Two of the grandest of all, the Wellington and the crown - both retro icons of dinner-party chic - are back in vogue. For a contemporary twist, scale them to an intimate group instead of a crowd: Wellington done with a petite pork tenderloin, or a crown of lamb ribs, makes an elegant centerpiece for a small party. However, the traditional beef Wellington and crown roast of pork are still absolute showstoppers for a throng.

The good news is that these roasts couldn't be easier to prepare. In the case of the Wellingtons, all assembly can be done ahead so the roasts stand ready to bake and serve. The crowns only need to be popped into the oven.

Beauty has its price, of course - typically $50 to $75 for the large roasts. Protect your investment with a reliable thermometer; cook the meat just to the recommended temperature.

Moroccan Crown Lamb Roast

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour, plus 3 hours to marinate

NOTES: Order 2 fat-trimmed lamb rib roasts, 9 bones each. Have the backbones cut off for easy carving, roasts joined to make a crown, and, if desired, ends of rib bones trimmed. If starting up to 1 day ahead, chill meat in marinade (step 2).

MAKES: 6 to 9 servings

1 crown lamb roast (18 ribs total, about 3 1/2 lb.; see notes)

1 tablespoon grated tangerine peel (orange part only)

1/2 cup tangerine juice

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon paprika

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon salt

Tangerine rice (recipe follows)

1. Rinse meat and pat dry.

2. In a deep bowl, combine tangerine peel, tangerine juice, cilantro, lemon juice, ginger, cumin, paprika, garlic, and salt. Add meat; turn to coat. Cover and chill at least 3 hours or up to 1 day, basting meat occasionally.

3. Lift meat from bowl; reserve marinade. Set roast, bone tips up, in a shallow 10- by 15-inch pan.

4. Bake in a 450 [degrees] oven until a thermometer inserted horizontally through roast into center of thickest part reads 150 [degrees] for rare, 35 to 40 minutes, or 155 [degrees] for medium-rare, 40 to 45 minutes; if areas of the roast begin to get too dark, drape with foil.

5. With 2 wide spatulas, transfer roast to a platter and let rest 15 to 20 minutes. Mound some of the tangerine rice in center of roast; put remainder in a bowl. Cut between ribs to serve.

Per serving lamb: 233 cal., 50% (117 cal.) from fat; 26 g protein; 13 g fat (4.7 g sat.); 0.8 g carbo (0 g fiber); 144 mg sodium; 87 mg chol.

Tangerine rice. Measure reserved lamb marinade (step 3, preceding) and add enough fat-skimmed chicken broth (about 2 1/4 cups) to make 3 cups total. Rinse 1 1/2 cups basmati rice in cool water, changing frequently, until water is clear; drain rice. Put rice in a 4- to 5-quart pan and add marinade mixture. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce heat, and simmer until rice is tender to bite, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Whack 1 package (10 oz.) frozen petite peas on a counter to break apart. Stir peas and 1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions, including tops, into rice. Cook until peas are hot, about 1 minute.

Per serving rice: 252 cal., 5.2% (13 cal.) from fat; 11 g protein; 1.4 g fat (0 g sat.); 55 g carbo (2.7 g fiber); 285 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Tangerine Crown Pork Roast

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 2 1/2 hours, plus 3 hours to marinate

NOTES: Order 2 pork loins, 9 bones each. Have the backbones cut off for easy carving, and the roasts tied together to make a crown.

MAKES: 18 servings

Follow directions for Moroccan crown lamb roast (page 138), but instead of the crown lamb roast, use 1 crown pork loin roast (18 ribs total, about 10 lb.; see notes), fat-trimmed. In marinade (step 2), omit the cilantro, lemon juice, cumin, paprika, garlic, and salt. Add 1/2 cup soy sauce and 1/4 cup honey to the tangerine peel, tangerine juice, and ginger.

Bake (step 4) in a 350 [degrees] oven until a thermometer inserted horizontally through the middle of the roast into the center of the thickest part reads 155 [degrees], 2 to 2 1/4 hours.

Meanwhile, use reserved marinade to make tangerine rice (preceding), but add enough fat-skimmed chicken broth (about 4 1/2 cups) to make 6 cups total liquid, and use 3 cups basmati rice. Cook in a 5- to 6-quart pan, and increase green onions to 1 cup.

Per serving pork: 295 cal., 40% (117 cal.) from fat; 40 g protein; 13 g fat (4.9 g sat.); 1.4 g carbo (0 g fiber); 187 mg sodium; 112 mg chol.

Cabernet Beef Wellington

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 3/4 hours, plus 4 hours to chill

NOTES: Up to 1 day ahead, roast meat and cook mushrooms; chill separately, airtight. Up to 4 hours ahead, wrap meat in pastry; cover and chill. Bake just before serving; meat reheats but doesn't cook further. To serve sauce hot, make while the roast rests; otherwise, make up to 2 hours ahead and let stand at room temperature.

MAKES: 12 servings

1 beef tenderloin (about 4 lb.), fat-trimmed