Build a patio side table - Brief Article

Sunset, June, 2000 by Peter O. Whiteley

Fast-drying grout forms a versatile tabletop

* Here's a quick and inexpensive way to add a handsome side table to your patio: Top a large flowerpot, chimney flue tile, or ready-made metal table base with a 2-foot-square cast from a cementlike material called nonshrink grout. The top has a square opening through which a plant can grow, leaving enough of a rim for small dishes and glasses. Or you can partially fill the opening to provide a recess for a ceramic or stone tile.

The nonshrink grout, available at many building supply centers, comes in 50-pound bags that cost around $13 (or you can call 800/282-5828 or visit www.quikrete.com to find a Quikrete dealer in your area). The natural color of the grout is gray. To add color, use commercially available concrete coloring liquid (a 10-ounce bottle costs about $4) or powder (cost depends on color; a 1-pound bag is less than $10). Coloring is sold at building supply centers; use one bag or bottle per bag of grout.

TIME: One day to make form and mix and pour grout, plus six days for drying

COST: About $40, plus cost of base

MATERIALS FOR ONE TABLETOP

* Half sheet of 3/4-inch smooth particleboard, preferably with melamine surface (available at some home centers)

* Can of clear polyurethane spray (if using nonmelamine particleboard)

* 30 2-inch deck screws

* Quarter sheet of particleboard equal to thickness of tile (if insetting tile)

* One decorative tile (optional)

* Finishing nails

* Tube of acrylic caulk

* 50-pound bag of nonshrink grout

* Bag or bottle of concrete color mix (optional)

* Can of nonstick cooking spray

* Pint of concrete sealer

* Glue or thin-set for tile

* Sanded grout

MATERIALS FOR BASE

Large (16-inch-diameter) flowerpot, 16-inch chimney flue tile, or purchased metal base

TOOLS

Tape measure, table or circular saw, drill, screwdriver, mixing bucket or tray for grout, hoe (or heavy-duty electric drill with mixing bit), steel trowel, hammer, thin-bladed spackle knife, sandpaper, paintbrush

DIRECTIONS

1. If using plain particleboard, seal one side with polyurethane spray.

2. Cut a 24-inch square from the 3/4-ineh particleboard.

3. Cut two pieces of 3/4-inch particleboard to measure 21/4 inches wide by 24 inches long and two pieces to measure 21/4 inches wide by 251/2 inches long. Create form by attaching pieces to outside edge of square using deck screws in predrilled holes; sealed side of board should face in.

4. If you'd like a hole in the tabletop, cut four 11/2-inchwide pieces to make an 8-inch-square hollow box with butt or miter corners (sealed side of hoard should face Out). Center the box in 24-inch square and attach with two screws per side, running down through pieces and into the base (A). If you plan to inset a tile, cut a piece of thinner particleboard the size of the tile. Put a slight inward bevel on the edges to aid in removal later. Center in 24-inch square and attach with finishing nails.

5. Caulk all inside edges and corners with a narrow bead. Work caulk into corners with dampened fingers and clean off excess. Let dry.

6. Mix grout with 43/4 quarts (1 gallon and 11/2 pints) of water to a soupy consistency. If desired, add coloring material and mix until thoroughly combined.

7. Coat inside of form with nonstick cooking spray, which will help release the form when grout has dried. Pour in mix (B). It should come just to top of form. Work it into all corners with trowel. Use a piece of particleboard long enough to span the form as a screed, sliding it over and leveling the wet surface; remove any excess mix (C). Tap edges of form with hammer to work out air bubbles.

8. Let dry for 24 hours, then unscrew sides, turn upside down, and remove form (a thin-bladed spackle knife helps loosen the edges). To remove any burrs, lightly sand the side that was against the particleboard with fine sandpaper. Let dry in a cool place for three days.

9. Seal surface with penetrating concrete sealer. Let dry about one day.

10. If insetting a tile, glue or thin-set it in center of recess. If tile is natural stone, seal surface with penetrating sealer. Let dry about one day, then add sanded grout around tile. Place on base.