Chicken salad spectacular - Recipe

Sunset, June, 2000 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

An all-time favorite steps out on a world tour of flavors

* Chicken salad--once a plain Jane sandwich stuffer--has enormous potential as a sophisticated entr[acute{e}]e. It travels the world, absorbing local flavors with amazing versatility.

In Mexico, dressed with a colorful corn salsa, chicken sits atop a crisp tortilla, composing a tostada. In France, it exhibits an affinity for licorice-scented tarragon and peppery watercress. As it passes through India, chicken wears a curry-spiced yogurt-mayonnaise dressing but settles into melon wedges in distinctly Western style. In China, it reunites with old friends--fried noodles, toasted sesame seeds, and a lemony dressing--to become a salad full of crunchy textures. By the time chicken reaches Southeast Asia, it consorts boldly with sweet, sour, hot, salty, and bitter elements in vivid contrast.

All of these recipes start with shredded cooked chicken. The steeped chicken below is an easy way to cook this essential ingredient. You can also buy a roasted chicken from a delicatessen or the deli department of a supermarket. Then dress the meat with the flavors of your country of choice.

Bang-Bang Chicken Salad

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 30 minutes

NOTES: This Southeast Asian salad, an adaptation of one created by Chef John Beardsley at Ponzu in San Francisco, is layered with intense flavors and textures. Roasted rice powder adds an intriguing crunch, but you can omit it if you wish. To simplify assembly, prepare the roasted rice powder, chicken, arugula, candied peel, and dressing up to 1 day ahead; cover elements separately and chill.

MAKES: 4 servings

1/4 cup jasmine or long-grain white rice (optional)

2 pink grapefruit (2 1/2 lb. total)

Candied grapefruit peel (recipe follows) or 3 tablespoons orange marmalade

Lemon grass dressing (recipe follows)

4 cups shredded cooked chicken (see box at left)

3 tablespoons finely chopped lime (including peel)

2 quarts (6 oz.) baby or bite-size pieces arugula leaves, rinsed and crisped

1. If making roasted rice powder, in an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir rice often until tinged with brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Cool and whirl in a blender to a coarse powder.

2. With a small, sharp knife, cut peel and white membrane from grapefruit. If making candied peel, reserve some; otherwise, discard. Working over a strainer set in a bowl, cut between fruit and inner membranes to release grapefruit segments and drop into strainer. Squeeze juice from membranes into bowl. Discard membranes; reserve juice for other uses.

3. In a large bowl, stir candied grapefruit peel into cool lemon grass dressing, separating pieces. Add chicken, lime, arugula, grapefruit segments, and ground toasted rice; mix gently. Spoon onto plates.

Per serving: 411 cal., 13% (53 cal.) from fat; 44 g protein; 5.9 g fat (1.5 g sat.); 45 g carbo (3 g fiber); 1,318 mg sodium; 105 mg chol.

Candied Grapefruit Feel

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: If making up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill. Use peel in bang-bang chicken salad (recipe precedes) to add unexpected bits of sweetness. Candied peel is also delicious sprinkled over vanilla ice cream.

MAKES: About 1/3 cup

1. With a vegetable peeler, pare enough peel (colored part only) from grapefruit (see bang-bang chicken salad, preceding) to make 1/3 cup. Stack several pieces and cut into 1/4-inchwide strips about 1 1/2 inches long. Repeat to cut remaining peel. In a 1- to 2-quart pan over high heat, bring 2 to 3 cups water to a boil. Drop peel into water and boil about 1 minute; drain. Repeat with fresh water; boil 1 minute and drain again.

2. Return peel to pan; add 1/2 cup water and 1/4 cup sugar. Boil over high heat until peel is translucent and all but about 2 tablespoons liquid has evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Cool.

Per tablespoon: 32 cal., 0% (0 cal.) from fat; 0 g protein; 0 g fat; 8 g carbo (1.1 g fiber); 0.3 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Lemon Grass Dressing

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes NOTES: If making up to 1 day ahead, cover and chill. If lemon grass is not available, substitute 1 teaspoon grated lemon peel. Use this dressing in bang-bang chicken salad (recipe precedes) or other Asian-style salads.

MAKES: About 2/3 cup

1. Trim off and discard root end and tough tops from 1 stalk fresh lemon grass (12 in.). Peel off and discard tough outer layer. Chop tender inner portion of stalk and put in a blender or food processor. Add 3 tablespoons each soy sauce, Asian fish sauce (nuoc main or nam pla), and rice vinegar; 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh jalape[tilde{n}]o chili; 2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger; and 1 tablespoon chopped garlic. Whirl until fairly smooth.

2. Put 1/3 cup sugar in an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over high heat; shake pan often until sugar is melted and amber-colored, 2 to 3 minutes. Add lemon grass mixture (mixture will bubble and sugar will harden). Stir over medium heat until sugar is dissolved. Cool to room temperature.

Per tablespoon: 43 cal., 10% (4.5 cal.) from fat; 1.1 g protein; 0.5 g fat (0.1 g sat.); 8.7 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 488 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.