Holiday hotels - Directory

Sunset, Dec, 2000

All across the West, holiday cheer and beloved tradition come together naturally when historic hotels--some more than a century old--celebrate the season.

Whether you're traveling and need a room or simply want a shopping break and a soul-warming hot toddy, these grand classics will help get you out of the weather and into the holiday spirit

Northern California

SAN FRANCISCO

Palace Hotel

The grande dame of San Francisco lodging has weathered earthquakes, fire, and the curses of tenor Enrico Caruso--all with unshakable grace. The hotel is never more spectacular than during the holidays, when garlands fill the marble lobby and Christmas lights add to the warm glow in the spectacular Garden Court.

Yet the building's history is stormy. Billed as the world's largest, most elegant hotel at its opening in 1875, it cost $5 million, driving partner William Ralston to financial ruin. After the 1906 quake tossed Caruso from his bed--he vowed never to return to the city--and the postquake fires gutted the structure, it was rebuilt at a cost of $10 million. It was renovated again in 1989, this time for $170 million.

This month, festivities include gingerbread-house decorating classes and Prince and Princess Teas for kids. Pastry chef Beat Wirz will unveil the 7-foot-tail Christmas cake, decorated for the 12 days of Christmas. Munch and sip at teas offered Wednesday through Saturday in the Garden Court beneath the stained-glass dome. 553 rooms from $189 (holiday rate). 2 New Montgomery St.; (800) 325-3589, (415) 512-1111, or www. sfpalace. corn. -- Lisa Taggart

Other historic Northern California hotels

* SACRAMENTO: Sterling Hotel. This 1894 hotel was a boardinghouse before restoration in 1988. Today, a marble floor and art deco chandeliers are complemented by Queen Anne furnishings. The lobby and Chanterelle Restaurant are adorned for the season with glistening creations of greenery, topiaries, and fruit, Apple cider is available all season long in the lobby. 17 rooms from $169. 1300 H St.; (916) 448-1300 or www.sterlinghotel.com. -- L.T.

* SAN FRANCISCO: Fairmont Hotel. Regally situated atop Nob Hill, the 1907 Julia Morgan-designed building was built to honor silver baron "Bonanza Jim Fair. The hotel was the first to reopen after the 1906 earthquake and fires leveled every hotel in the city. A recent $80-million renovation restored the original pale marble floors and gold-leaf Ionic columns of the lobby, decked out this month with a large gingerbread house and Christmas tree. Starting November 24, holiday teas in the Laurel Court provide a refined retreat. 591 rooms from $289. 950 Mason St.; (800) 527-4727 or www.fairmont.com. -- L.T.

Ritz-Carlton. For decades visitors have chugged up Nob Hill on the California Street cable car to this 91-year-old hotel. Holiday celebrations kick oft on November 27, when the 60-foot tree out front is lit. Dickensian carolers and a hot cider party add to the fun. November 24 through December 24, the daily Teddy Bear Tea ($50) is a treat for kids. 336 rooms from $320. 600 Stockton St., (800) 241-3333, (415) 364-3540, or www.ritzcarlton.com. -- L.T.

Westin St. Francis. Built in 1904, the St. Francis offers afternoon teas just off the lobby in the Compass Rose lounge (415/774-0167), restored to its original splendor with wood-paneled walls, crystal lamps, and fluted columns. In the lobby, the World's Largest Santa Convention exhibit features images and figurines of St. Nick from around the world. Kids and adults alike can make their own gingerbread cookies at the Candy Cane Counter. A holiday shopper's package (from $139) includes gift certificates to nearby shops, 1,192 rooms from $389. 335 Powell St.; (800) 937-8461, (415) 397-7000, or www.westin.com. -- L.T.

Southern California

CORONADO

Hotel del Coronado

Set like a huge Victorian tea service on Coronado's wide beach, "the Del" boasts one of the West's oldest holiday hotel traditions. In 1904 it threw the switch on the nation's first electrically lit outdoor Christmas tree--a living pine on the front lawn. Indeed, the Del's love affair with light is long-standing. Before beginning construction, it had to build its own power plant--once said to be the largest incandescent electric plant in the world. And when the hotel opened in 1888, electricity was still something of a novelty--guests had to be warned not to light the electric lamps with a flame. Isn't it odd that a hotel once heralded as state-of-the-art is now on the National Register and beloved for its quaint architecture and fin-desiecle ambience?

Holidays here are especially active, just as they were a century ago. The lobby feels like a set for The Nutcracker, with a tree that touches the paneled room's ceiling near an original birdcage elevator. Outdoors, the Lighting of the Del ceremony takes place on the Windsor Lawn (November 29 at 4 P.M.), with carols sung by schoolchildren and local theater professionals, sing-alongs, and food and drink.

December 17 through 30 (except the 25th), Lamb's Players Theatre troupe uses the Grand Ballroom to stage An American Christmas, a combination five-course feast and celebration that lasts about three hours; during dinner you'll meet the Marshalls, a fictional family from the early 19th century (from $90, $59 ages 5-12).