Sierra summer: you can still find room to roam in the Sierra Nevada less traveled

Sunset, June, 2002 by Jeff Phillips

* Can any geography be more essential to California than the Sierra Nevada? This 400-mile chain of granite peaks and shimmering waters--the nation's longest mountain range outside of Alaska--shapes the Golden State's weather, supplies its water, and defines its history. It is also California's great summer time backyard--most people live within a four-hour drive. Of course, that proximity can be a liability: At the height of the season, you can have too much company at popular destinations like Lake Tahoe and Yosemite. Thee is, however more to the Sierra than its well-trodden landmarks. While no place near a mountain road is truly undiscovered, three of our favorite high-country destinations will get you into the heart of Muir's magnificent mountains.

RELATED ARTICLE: Lake country hiking, boating, and history near Graeagle

With a Norman Rockwell row of old red cottages--and not much else--lining its main street, tiny Graeagle has the kind of quiet charm that's always been worth a quick stop. Until recently it was known mostly as a gateway for hiking, boating, and fishing the stunning mountain-ringed waterways of the Lakes Basin and for searching out the ghosts of historic mining camps.

Yet last summer's opening of the clubhouse at the nearby Nakoma Resort and Spa formally brought the number of golf courses in the area to six--two of which are decidedly upscale. Built from an original design by Frank Lloyd Wright, Nakoma's spectacular clubhouse is flanked by 18 of the toughest holes in California. The course down the road at Whitehawk is nearly as challenging and just as lovely. Both add increased variety to the region's already ample natural attractions.

One of those attractions is the old mining complex tucked among the pines at Plumas-Eureka State Park. The museum, a converted miners' bunkhouse, brings the miners' daily regime to vivid life, with an exhibit of tools, household items, mining machinery, and photographs. Nearby are the old blacksmith shop, where drills were sharpened, and the spectacular remains of the stamp mill, where steel pistons weighing nearly a half ton smashed bucket loads of ore for the gold--some $18 million worth before the last mine closed in 1943.

After contemplating the hard life of the hard-rock miner, take a hike on the Eureka Peak Loop Trail, where we spotted a Sierra aviary of birds, including pileated woodpeckers and calliope hummingbirds. The trail winds 3 miles among fir, pine, and cedar to 7,447-foot Eureka Peak and offers 360[degrees] views of this rugged country, including the watermarked granite folds of Lakes Basin.

While not exactly wilderness, Lakes Basin is one of those High Sierra gems that never seems all that crowded. Perhaps that's because the basin, which stretches from Plumas-Eureka State Park south to State 49, is filled with dozens of lakes. Some, like Gold, Upper Salmon, and Lower Sardine Lakes, are road-accessible and big enough for small boats and good trout fishing. Many more lakes are within easy hiking distance.

One popular hike is the moderately easy, 3-mile Bear Lake Loop; we stretched it out to 5 or 6 miles by detouring to Long Lake and then returning via Round Lake. This extended loop takes you past a number of stunning lakes. Several longer hikes from other trailheads link up to the Pacific Crest Trail, which traces the basin's western ridgeline.

There are plenty of lodging options, including a handful of popular Lakes Basin lodges. But for the city-weary, pitching a tent at one of the dozen campgrounds beneath the rugged Sierra Buttes is a tonic. Sitting in the cool shade under fragrant pines while the kids splash in the lake, you quickly realize that while there's plenty to do here, this is also great country for people who don't want to do much of anything at all.

Don George

TRAVEL PLANNER

Graeagle is about an hour north of Lake Tahoe. For more travel information contact the Plumas County Visitors Bureau (800/326-2247, 530/283-6345, or www.plumascounty.org).

ACTIVITIES. Lakes Basin Recreation Area. Access to trails, lakes, and camping is from the Gold Lake Highway. Camping from $14. (877) 444-6777 (reservations) or (530) 836-2575 (information). Plumas-Eureka State Park. Campground and picnic area open during summer. (530) 836-2380.

DINING. Grizzly Grill Restaurant & Bar. Seafood, pastas, and a savory cassoulet highlight the area's most upscale menu. 250 Bonta St., Blairsden; (530) 836-1300. Iron Door. Set in an old general store in historic Johnsville, it serves traditional food. Closed Tue. Off County Rd. A14 and State 70; (530) 836-2376.

LODGING. Feather River Inn. Built in 1915, this alpine-style lodge has simple, recently renovated rooms from $89 in the main lodge and very basic cabins from $60. Blairsden; (530) 836-2623 or www.featherriverinn.com. Gray Eagle Lodge. Eighteen rustic creekside cabins in Lakes Basin. From $180. Graeagle; (800) 635-8778 or www.grayeaglelodge.com. Nakoma Resort and Spa. Four large Wright-designed villas. From $575. Clio; (877) 416-0880. Lodge and Restaurant at Whitehawk Ranch. A dozen recently built cabins, most with jetted tubs. From $150. Clio; (877) 945-6343 or www.lodgeatwhitehawk.com.