Sierra summer: you can still find room to roam in the Sierra Nevada less traveled

Sunset, June, 2002 by Jeff Phillips

Summit country sun and solitude driving the high passes

In Alpine County, the least populated county in California, it's rumored that deer outnumber humans two to one. With a scant 1,200 residents--people, that is--local businessmen like Bob Anderson let you do the math while they revel in the solitude. "We have more campsites than hotel rooms up here," he says with a grin.

With wildflower-speckled meadows surrounded by 9,000-foot peaks, roughly 95 percent of the county's 727 square miles are protected as public lands, including two major wilderness areas, Mokelumne in the north, Carson-Iceberg in the south. In short, it's a Sierra playground, with miles of mountain bike--friendly dirt roads and hiking trails knee-deep in mule's ears, lupines, and penstemons.

Only three highways--88, 89, and 4--traverse the county, topping four passes more than 8,000 feet in elevation. Approaching from the west via State 88 you pass the newly expanded resort at Kirkwood with its sleek condos and spas, then climb the craggy granite ramparts of Carson Pass and drop into the wide-open splendor of Hope Valley. Thousands of settlers in wagon trains passed this same way on the Emigrant Trail a century and a half ago.

A side trip up Blue Lakes Road leads to camping and fishing on a handful of mountain-backed lakes. Beyond Hope Valley the sparkling--and trout-filled--West Fork of the Carson River tumbles down rugged Woodfords Canyon. Turn south on State 89 to Markleeville, a pit stop for picnic and fishing supplies as well as hiking and camping information.

From Markleeville, the road snakes along the East Fork of the Carson River, which tumbles down a raw-looking gash of rust- and dun-colored rock. The river is popular for whitewater rafting early in the season and offers excellent fly-fishing all summer long.

About 4 miles south of Markleeviile, turn onto State 4 for the slow, twisting ascent through stately conifers to 8,731-foot Ebbetts Pass. Like Carson Pass, Ebbetts is crossed by the Pacilic Crest Trail, a segment of which makes an easy 1-mile hike north to Kinney Lakes. From the pass the highway drops down to Lake Alpine--a good stop for a picnic or a paddle--and Alpine County's only other major resort development, the charmingly retro hamlet of Bear Valley. On a Saturday night the Creekside Dining Room is one of the few places on the entire drive where people will dependably outnumber the deer.

Harriot Manley

TRAVEL PLANNER

Markleeville is about an hour south of Lake Tahoe. For information contact the Alpine County Chamber of Commerce and the U.S. Forest Service Information Center (530/694-2475 or www.alpinecountycom).

ACTIVITIES. Bear Valley Music Festival, Jul 27- Aug 11. Reserve tickets now. (209) 753-2574 or www.bearvalleymusic.org.

Grover Hot Springs State Park. Fishing, hiking, and soaking in a developed hot springs pool. Campsites $12.(800)444-7275 or www.reserveamerica.com for reservations (required); (530) 694-2248 (information).

Fly-fishing. Learn the basics at Horse Feathers Fly Fishing School. Two-hour lesson is $70. (530) 694-2399.