Queen of the Angels: a striking cathedral, hot restaurants, and a stylish hotel bring glamour and inspiration to Downtown L.A - Travel

Sunset, Dec, 2002 by Matthew Jaffe

(B) Music Center of Los Angeles County. One of the nation's premier arts centers, the complex encompasses the Ahmanson Theatre, the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, the Mark Taper Forum, and the Walt Disney Concert Hall. Resident companies include the Los Angeles Philharmonic and the Los Angeles Opera, while touring Broadway productions are staged at the Ahmanson. 135 N. Grand, www.musiccenter.org or (213) 972-7200.

(C) Walt Disney Concert Hall.

Set to open in October 2003, the block-long complex between Grand and Hope St. is destined to become a major Southern California landmark. Subscription and ticket in formation: www.laphill.org/ wdch or (323) 850-2000.

(D) Colburn School of Performing Arts. Recitals are held in the school's 420-seat Herbert Zipper Concert Hall (call for schedule and tickets). 200 S. Grand; www.zipperhall.org or (213) 621-2200,

(E) Museum of Contemporary Art at California Plaza. Arata Isozaki's red sandstone--clad design is considered a modern masterpiece. MOCA's current show is a survey of works by Los Angeles multimedia artist Sam Durant (exhibit runs through Jan 19). 11-5 Tue-Sun (until 8 Thu); $8. 250 S. Grand, www.moca.org or (213) 626-6222.

(F) Los Angeles City Hall. Although it was damaged in the 1994 Northridge earthquake, city hall has never looked better, following a major interior and exterior renovation. You can walk through during business hours (9-5 Mon-Fri) or join a free 45-minute guided tour (call for tour schedule). Between Main and Spring Streets, entrance is at 200 N. Spring St., (213) 978-1995.

Walking tours Los Angeles Conservancy Downtown Walking Tours. The city's leading preservation organization offers a diverse program of Saturday tours, including visits to city hall, theaters, and Pershing Square park. $8 non-members; reservations required. www.iaconservancy.com or (213) 623-2489.

Red Line Tours. Daily 90-minute guided tours explore the best of historic and modern downtown. $20; reservations required. www.redlinetours.com or (323) 402-1074.

Dining

Ciudad. Stylish and contemporary, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger's nuevo Latino spot is one of the most important additions to the scene in recent years. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner nightly 445 S. Figueroa St.; (213) 486-5171.

Palm Restaurant. Urban and clubby with trademark caricatures of politicos and journalists, it was one of the first higher-end restaurants to open near the Staples Center arena. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner nightly 1100 S. Flower St.; (213) 763-4600.

Zucca Ristorante. Joachim Splichal serves Italian cuisine in an atmosphere reminiscent of classic Roman restaurants. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner nightly. 801 S. Figueroa; (213) 614-7800.

Lodging

For more hotel suggestions, contact the visitor information sources listed above left.

The Downtown L.A. Standard. On weekends in particular the hotel can be lively; if noise is an issue, ask about quieter rooms. 207 rooms from $95. 550 S. Flower; www.standardhotel.com or (213) 892-8080.

Wyndham Checkers Hotel.

Sleekly restored 1920s hostelry. 188 rooms from $189. 535 S. Grand; www.checkershotel.com or (213) 624-0000.