Field day: crisp winter weather adds spice to a gourmet picnic

Sunset, Dec, 2002 by Charity Ferreira, Jil Peters

There's a lot to be said for picnicking in the off-season: the air feels cool and smells of wintry things like smoke and wet leaves, the sun gleams brightly but benevolently, and parks and beaches are empty of crowds. Winter is a beautiful time to be outside, particularly when you've brought a thick blanket to sit on and a lunch that includes thermoses of hot soup.

Cool-season picnic fare can be hearty and assertive, like our saffron-spiced carrot and white bean soup, and Spanish ham and Manchego cheese sandwiches spread with tangy tomato jam. Add a delicious winter-fruit salad and dark chocolate-fromage blanc brownies for an indulgent interlude.

Persimmon and Apple Salad with Walnuts

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: Fuyu persimmons are the small, flat-bottomed variety that can be eaten when firm. Assemble salad just before packing.

MAKES: 6 to 8 servings

1/3 cup walnut pieces
  2 tablespoons orange juice
  1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
  1 tablespoon olive oil
  3 Fuji or other sweet apples (about
    8 oz. each), rinsed, cored, and thinly
    sliced lengthwise
  3 firm-ripe Fuyu persimmons (about
    6 oz. each; see notes), rinsed,
    stemmed, and thinly sliced lengthwise
    Salt and pepper

1. Bake the walnuts in an 8- or 9-inch baking pan in a 350[degrees] regular or convection oven, shaking pan occasionally, until nuts are golden beneath skins, 7 to 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine orange juice, vinegar, and olive oil. Add apples, persimmons, and toasted walnuts and mix to coat. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Per 1/4 cup: 153 cal., 2% (2.7 cal,) from fat; 0.9 g protein; 0.3 g fat (0 g sat.); 39 g carbo (1.6 g fiber); 167 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Carrot and White Bean Soup

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: You can prepare through step 4 up to 1 day ahead; cool, cover, and chill. Continue with step 5 just before serving or packing.

MAKES: 2 1/2 quarts; 6 to 8 servings

    1 head garlic (3 1/2 to 4 oz.)
      About 1 tablespoon olive oil
    1 onion (about 8 oz.), peeled and
      chopped
      Salt and pepper
  1/2 cup dry white wine
    3 cans (14 1/2 oz. each) fat-skimmed
      chicken broth
  1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled,
      or 1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron
2 1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into
      1/2-inch chunks
    2 cans (15 oz. each) small white beans,
      rinsed and drained
  1/4 cup dry sherry

1. Cut garlic head in half crosswise; rub cut surfaces lightly with olive oil and wrap garlic in foil. Bake in a 400[degrees] regular or convection oven until garlic is soft when pressed, about 40 minutes. When cool enough to handle, pluck or squeeze garlic cloves from peel; discard peel.

2. Meanwhile, in a 6- to 8-quart pan over medium-high heat, cook onion in 1 tablespoon oil, stirring occasionally, until very limp, about 15 minutes (if onion starts to brown, reduce heat and add a few tablespoons of water). Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add wine and stir often until most of the liquid is evaporated, 2 to 3 minutes.

3. Add broth, saffron, and carrots. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then cover, reduce heat, and simmer until carrots are very tender when pierced, about 20 minutes. Add roasted garlic.

4. In a blender or food processor, whirl mixture, in batches, until smooth.

5. Return puree to pan over low heat; add beans and sherry. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add more salt and pepper to taste.

Per serving: 252 cal., 8% (21 cal.) from fat; 15 g protein; 2.3 g fat (0.3 g sat.); 43 g carbo (4.7 g fiber); 101 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Ham and Manchego Sandwiches with Tomato Jam

PREP TIME: About 15 minutes

NOTES: Manchego is a firm Spanish sheep's-milk cheese. Make and wrap sandwiches just. before packing.

MAKES: 8 sandwiches

 8 sandwich rolls (3 oz. each)
   About 1 cup tomato jam
   (recipe follows)
12 ounces thin-sliced Spanish cured
   ham or prosciutto
 4 ounces Manchego cheese (see
   notes), thinly sliced, or parmesan
   cheese, shaved
 4 cups arugula leaves or salad greens
   (about 4 oz.), rinsed and crisped

Slice rolls in half horizontally and spread top halves generously with tomato jam. On bottom half of each roll, equally layer ham, cheese, and arugula leaves. Place top of roll on filling. Per serving: 479 cal., 30% (144 cal.) from fat; 23 g protein; 16 g fat (6 g sat.); 63 g carbo (2.4 g fiber); 1,433 mg sodium; 49 mg chol.

Tomato Jam

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 3/4 hours

NOTES: Chill leftover jam up to 2 weeks.

MAKES: About 2 cups

1 1/2 pounds cherry tomatoes (about 4
      cups), rinsed and stemmed
1 1/4 cups firmly packed brown sugar
  1/4 cup cider vinegar
  1/2 lemon (3 oz. total), including peel,
      rinsed and very thinly sliced
    2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
    1 teaspoon ground cumin
  3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
  1/2 teaspoon salt
  1/8 teaspoon pepper

1. In a 3- to 4-quart pan, combine tomatoes, brown sugar, vinegar, lemon, ginger, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring often.