Southern lights: Saffron Shores offers Jewish food from the lower Mediterranean - Food: Guide

Sunset, Dec, 2002 by Kate Washington

Joyce Goldstein wants to change everything you thought you knew about Jewish culinary traditions. Many Americans associate Jewish cooking with Eastern European flavors (such as chicken fat, onions, and sour cream). But Goldstein's research into Mediterranean Jewish food has opened up a world of different tastes.

Her newest cookbook, Saffron Shores: Jewish Cooking of the Southern Mediterranean, isn't for the novice cook; many recipes are challenging. But it is a beautiful treasure trove of dishes from the Jewish communities of North Africa. Some will seem familiar--spiced roast lamb with couscous and harissa from Morocco, for instance--whereas others are more exotic, like a green pureed soup of fava beans and cilantro, garnished with chicken gizzards, for Passover.

Saffron Shores (Chronicle Books, San Francisco, 2002; $35; 800/722-6657) is full of fresh ideas for all the Jewish holidays. For Hanukkah, it is traditional to eat oil-rich foods in honor of the miracle of a Temple lamp that burned for eight days with only one day's supply of oil. Goldstein suggests serving sweet or savory fried pastries, such as classic North African briks (spicy filled turnovers). We found more than one reason to like these mashed potato-filled Tunisian pastries, adapted from Goldstein's recipe--first, because they're easy to put together (egg roll wrappers fry up beautifully, and the thick filling doesn't leak out), and second, because they taste like a subtle twist on comfortingly familiar latkes.

Tunisian Potato Turnovers

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

MAKES: 4 dozen turnovers; 12 to 16 appetizer servings

  2 russet potatoes (1 lb. total),
    peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
  1 onion (6 oz.), peeled and chopped
  2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
  1 tablespoon olive oil
  3 tablespoon minced Italian parsley
  3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
  1 tablespoon drained capers,
    rinsed and coarsely chopped
  1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper
  1 large egg, separated
 12 square (6 in.) egg roll wrappers
    Vegetable oil for frying

1. In a 3- to 4-quart pan over high heat, bring potatoes and 2 quarts water to a boil; cover, reduce heat, and simmer until potatoes mash easily about 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a bowl; mash with a potato masher until smooth.

2. Meanwhile, in an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over medium heat, stir onion and garlic in oil until onion is very limp, about 10 minutes (if onion begins to brown, reduce heat to medium-low). Stir into potatoes, along with parsley cilantro, capers, salt, and pepper. In a small bowl, beat egg yolk to blend; add to potato mixture and mix well.

3. In another small bowl, beat egg white to blend. Cut each egg roll wrapper into four squares (keep covered with plastic wrap until ready to use). Place about 1 1/2 teaspoons potato mixture in the center of each square. Brush edges lightly with egg white. Fold each square diagonally over filling to form a triangle; pinch edges to seal.

4. Pour 2 inches of oil into a heavy 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat (or use a deep-fryer and follow manufacturer's recommendation for depth of oil). When oil reaches 375[degrees], using a slotted spoon or a mesh basket and working in batches of 6 to 12 (pastries should fit easily in one layer), lower pastries into oil. Fry until golden brown, turning once, 3 to 5 minutes total. Transfer to paper towel--lined 10- by 15-inch baking sheets in a 200[degrees] oven and keep warm up to 30 minutes. Allow oil to return to 375[degrees] between batches.

Per serving: 123 cal., 36% (44 cal.) from fat; 3.4 g protein; 4.9 g fat (0.7 g sat.); 16 g carbo (1.3 g fiber); 240 mg sodium; 15 mg chol.