Lemon zest: plant a fast-growing herb with an aromatic zing - Garden: Favorite Flavors - lemon grass in gardening - includes recipe for lemon grass and coconut sorbet

Sunset, June, 2003 by Sharon Cohoon, Kate Washington

In the garden, lemon grass forms handsome clumps that reach 3 to 4 feet tall and nearly as wide, with lime green leaves rising from swollen bases. When harvested, the bulbous stems look like scallions, but pale yellow and more fibrous. When you cut them, the stems release essential oils, which immediately perfume the air with the mouthwatering aroma of freshly cut lemon combined with the clean bite of ginger.

Thai and Vietnamese cooks use lemon grass in marinades, stir-fries, curries, and soups. But this fragrant herb isn't limited to Asian cuisine. Make a sugar-syrup infusion to spice up lemonade or to use as the start of a dessert such as Lemon Grass--Coconut Sorbet (left).

Fresh lemon grass can be hard to find at the supermarket. But you can buy a small potted plant now, and you'll grow a large clump of your own by summer's end.

What lemon grass needs

EXPOSURE: Full sun.

SOIL: Rich, with good drainage.

WATER: Ample during growing season; less in winter, when it goes dormant.

FEED: Monthly with half-strength fish emulsion during the growing season.

CLIMATE NOTES: Cymbopogon citratus is a perennial in Sunset climate zones 12, 13, 16, 17, 23, 24, H1, and H2. Elsewhere, grow it as an annual or treat it like a geranium or other tender perennial by bringing the entire plant or a potted cutting indoors for the winter.

HARVEST: When stems are about 1/2 inch thick. Push an outside stem to the side, then twist and pull it off. Discard leaves and woody outer layers; save the white inner core.

PLANT SOURCES: Nichols Garden Nursery (www.nicholsgardennursery.com or 800/422-3985).

RELATED ARTICLE: Lemon Grass--Coconut Sorbet

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 1 hour

NOTES: If you do not have an ice-cream maker, pour lemon grass mixture (after step 3) into a 9- by 13-inch dish and freeze just until firm, 2 to 4 hours. Scrape with a large fork to form a slushy ice; serve at once.

MAKES: About 1 quart; 4 to 6 servings

   10 stalks fresh lemon
      grass (about
      12 oz.), rinsed
1 1/2 cups sugar
  1/4 teaspoon salt
  1/4 cup lemon juice
    1 cup coconut milk
      (stir before
      measuring)

1. Peel toughest outer layers from lemon grass; discard. Cut into 1/2-inch lengths. In a 2-to 3-quart pan over high heat, combine lemon grass, sugar, salt, and 2 1/2 cups water. Stir until liquid comes to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring occasionally, until light golden, about 20 minutes.

2. Pour through a fine strainer into a bowl, pressing on solids; discard solids. Nest bowl in a larger bowl of ice water and stir syrup until cool, about 5 minutes. Stir in lemon juice.

3. Whisk in coconut milk. If mixture is lumpy, pour through a fine strainer.

4. Pour into an ice-cream maker (at least 1 qt.) and freeze. Scoop into bowls or, for a firmer consistency, freeze airtight up to 3 days.

Per serving: 293 cal., 25% (74 cal.) from fat; 1.29 protein; 8.2 g fat (7.1 g eat.); 582 carbo (0 g fiber); 104 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.