Discover wild Alaska: the supersize grandeur of the far north—its glaciers, its mountains, its wildlife—is more accessible than ever

Sunset, June, 2003 by Steven R. Lorton

The Hotel Captain Cook. The 547-room grand dame of Anchorage is modern and upscale. From $255. www.captaincook.com or (800) 843-1950.

Lucky Wishbone. This 1955 diner's chicken is a local legend. Closed Sun. 1033 E Fifth Ave.; (907) 272-3454.

Orso. Italian food with fresh Alaskan seafood flair. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily 737 W. Fifth Ave.; (907) 222-3232.

Simon & Seafort's. Fresh Alaskan seafood and Cock Inlet views. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner daily 420 L St.; (907) 274-3502.

Girdwood

Alyeska Resort. A grand 307-room hotel with mountain views. From $195. www.alyeskaresort.com or (800) 880-3880.

The Double Musky. Dinner Tue-Sun. Mile 0.3 on Crow Creek Rd.; (907) 783-2822.

Seven Glaciers Restaurant. Excellent dining at the top of the Alyeska tram. Dinner at 5:30 daily. (907) 754-2237.

Seward

Hotel Edgewater. A clean, basic 76-room hotel near the Alaska SeaLife Center. From $110. www.hoteledgewater.com or (888) 793-6800.

Hotel Seward. An updated 38-room Victorian-style inn. From $139. www.alaskaone.com/hotelseward or (907) 224-2378.

Valdez to Paxson

Copper Center Lodge. Three daily meals and 19 simple rooms (10 with baths) in an authentic log roadhouse. From $109. On Loop Rd. off mile 101 on Richardson Hwy (State 4), Copper Center; www.coppercenterlodge.com or (907) 822-3245.

Copper River Princess Wilderness Lodge. Upscale 85-room lodge serves three daily meals. From $99. Mile 102 on Richardson Hwy. at Brenwick-Craig Rd., Copper Center; www.princesslodges.com or (800) 426-0500.

Gakona Lodge and Trading Post. An authentic roadhouse with eight rooms; serves dinner nightly. From $85. Mile 2 on the Tok Cutoff Gakona; (907) 822-3482.

Denali Highway

Gracious House Lodge. A rustic and charming old roadhouse with 20 rooms (7 with private baths); serves three daily meals, From $705. Mile 82 on the Denail Hwy (State 8), 50 miles east of Cantwell; www.alaskaone.com/gracious or (907) 333-3148.

Tangle Lakes Ledge. Back to the frontier: 11 log cabins (without plumbing); serves three daily meals. From $75. Mile 22 on Denail Hwy., near Paxson; www.tanglelakeslodge.com or (907) 822-4202.

Near Denali National Park

Denali River Cabins and Cedars Lodge. 53 contemporary cabins (with showers), 48 motel-style rooms (with full baths); serves three daily meals. From $139. Mile 231.1 on George Parks Hwy (State 3), 6 miles south of park entrance; www.seedenali.com or (800) 230-7275.

Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge. 238 luxurious rooms. The Mountain View Restaurant serves three daily meals and has views of Mt. McKinley. From $99. Mile 133 on George Parks Hwy., 106 miles from park entrance; www.princesslodges.com or (800) 426-0500.

Talkeetna

Cafe Michele. Fresh, often coal ingredients spark chef-owner Michele Camera-Faurot's menu. The food and homey setting are a welcome break from hotels, Mile 13.75 on Talkeetna Spur Rd.; (907) 733-5300.

Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge. 200 contemporary rooms; views of Mt. Mckinley. Restaurant serves three daily meals. From $225. Mile 12.5 on Talkeetna Spur Rd.; www.talkeetnalodge.com or (888) 959-9590.