Discover wild Alaska: the supersize grandeur of the far north—its glaciers, its mountains, its wildlife—is more accessible than ever

Sunset, June, 2003 by Steven R. Lorton

Palmer

Hatcher Pass Lodge. Rustic, with nine cabins, three lodge rooms; serves three daily meals for guests. From $95. Mile 17.5 on Fishhook-Willow Rd.; www.hatcherpasslodge.com or (907) 745-5897.

Wilderness park lodges

The "real" Alaska begins beyond the end of the road. Turn your Grand Tour into a grand adventure by adding a detour to wilderness lodges deep within two of Alaska's most majestic national parks.

Jeff Phillips

DENALI NATIONAL PARK

Camp Denali

The only park lodging with views of Mt. McKinley, 51-year-old Camp Denali has a staff of experts who introduce guests to the park. Lodging options are 17 rustic but comfortable ridgetop cabins with private outhouses and 15 rooms with baths in nearby North Face Lodge. Delicious meals accompanied by reports on the day's bear and caribou sightings make this our top Alaska wilderness choice. From $1,125 per person (three-night minimum), all-inclusive. www.campdenall.com or (907) 683-2290.

WRANGELL-ST. ELIAS NATIONAL PARK

Kennicott Glacier Lodge

Fly in from Chitina to see the park's mountain-and glacier-packed interior, then spend a couple of days hiking, taking a guided walk on Root Glacier, and touring the hulking 1907 Kennicott Copper Mill. Historic Kennicott Glacier Lodge has 25 simple rooms (shared baths) and family-style meals. From $179 for two (from $265 with three meals.) www.kennicottlodge.com or (800) 582-5128. Round-trip charter from Chitina, (from $150) on Wrangell Mountain Air, (800) 478-1160.