All about tuna: from albacore to ahi, what to buy and how to cook it - Food Guide

Sunset, June, 2003 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Fresh tuna is swimming in many channels these days, from sushi rolls in supermarket delis, to seared ahi on restaurant menus, to sashimi in popular sushi bars. Perhaps because it's often served raw or nearly raw and in Japanese preparations, the fish can be intimidating to the average cook. But it's easy to master the basics. Rodelio Aglibot, executive chef at Koi Restaurant in Los Angeles, shares his tuna expertise and a favorite recipe.

Seared Tuna with Japanese Salsa

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 25 minutes

NOTES: Aglibot uses a citrus-seasoned ponzu, soy sauce, to flavor the salsa. We've mixed soy and lemon juice for an easy alternative.

MAKES: 2 servings

  2 tuna steaks (big eye, yellowfin, or albacore;
    about 1 1/4 in. thick, 5 to 6 oz. each)
  1 teaspoon minced or pressed garlic
    Salt and pepper
  2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup sake
  2 tablespoons soy sauce
3/4 cup finely chopped tomatoes
  2 tablespoons finely chopped green onion
  1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
  1 tablespoon lemon juice
  6 to 8 slices peeled avocado (3 to 4 oz. total)

1. Rinse tuna; pat dry. Spread garlic on both sides of steaks; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pour oil into an 8- to 10-inch nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add tuna. Cook, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Pour sake and 1 tablespoon soy sauce around steaks; remove from heat. Let cool, turning fish often.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix tomatoes, green onion, cilantro, lemon juice, and remaining tablespoon soy sauce.

3. Lift tuna from sake mixture, reserving juices. Cut fish across the grain into 1/4-inchthick slices and lay on plates. Garnish with the salsa and avocado slices. If desired, spoon pan juices equally over tuna (otherwise discard).

Per serving: 340 cal., 48% (162 cal.) from fat: 32 g protein; 18 g fat (3.2 g sat.); 9.5 g carbo (1.9 g fiber): 1,093 mg sodium: 45 mg chol.

RELATED ARTICLE: Tuna types

The Japanese rate tuna based on fat content and size, the higher-fat species being the most flavorful and tender. Look for troll-, pole-, or rod-and-reel- caught fish.

Big eye (ahi). Deep ruby red flesh and high fat content. Availability can be spotty.

Yellowfin (ahi). Much like big aye, but milder in flavor and slightly leaner and firmer, Widely available.

Albacore (tombo). Leanest and most affordable. Usually served cooked.

Buying tips

* Buy from a shop you trust. The way tuna is handled greatly affects its quality.

* Choose a store with quick product turnover. Japanese markets are often good bets.

* Select the fish with your nose: it should smell ocean-fresh or be odorless,

* Look for firm flesh with uniformly bright color.

* Avoid fish that feels slimy or granular.

* For sashimi (raw fish), ask for maguro-a tender cut that runs along the spine near the head-out into saku blocks.

A note on safety

Parasites are rare in tuna (especially sashimi-grade cuts), but to minimize the risk, follow the buying tips above. And to help slow the growth of bacteria, keep fish cold, then sear it on the outside, where bacteria generally occur.