Korean supper: aromatic beef, glossy noodles, and cool salads spice up a summer party

Sunset, June, 2004 by Julie Chai

Just the smell of bulgogi (Korean barbecued beef) on the grill transports me to my childhood summers, when my parents would entertain friends on balmy evenings. My mom, who is of German descent, learned years ago to make bulgogi from my Korean aunties and has since perfected the flavors in her version. It's now one of her signature dishes, and she always serves it alongside a shallow bowl of glossy noodles and an array of refreshing marinated-vegetable salads.

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Because we generally ate these dishes on special occasions, I always assumed that they were complicated. But using my dad's slicing and grilling techniques and my mom's tried-and-true seasonings, these recipes are easy enough for anyone to make. Most can be prepared in advance; just add a pot of steaming rice and purchased kim chee (spicy pickled cabbage), and you have the makings for a fuss-free summer supper that will have your guests asking for seconds.

Korean Barbecued Beef

PREP AND COOK TIME: 30 minutes, plus 30 minutes to marinate

MAKES: About 6 servings

NOTES: Save hard-to-slice end pieces of uncooked steak to use in Korean clear noodles with mixed vegetables (recipe follows).

  1 beef flank steak (1 3/4 to 2 lb.)
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions
  2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
  3 tablespoons sugar
  3 cloves garlic, peeled and pressed or minced

1. Rinse beef and pat dry. Cut steak at a 45[degrees] angle across the grain, cutting almost, but not completely, through. Make another cut 1/4 inch from the first cut, following the same angle and cutting all the way through (see notes). Open up butterflied slices and place in a large bowl.

2. Add soy, green onions, sesame oil, sugar, and garlic to bowl; mix to coat. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours.

3. Spread slices open on an oiled grill over a bed of hot coals or high heat on a gas grill (you can hold your hand at grill level only 2 to 3 seconds); close lid on gas grill. Cook, turning once, until browned on both sides, 5 to 6 minutes total.

Per serving: 212 cal., 51% (108 cal.) from fat; 21 g protein; 12 g fat (4.4 g sat.); 4.6 g carbo (0.1 g fiber); 748 mg sodium; 52 mg chol.

Korean Clear Noodles with Mixed Vegetables

PREP AND COOK TIME: 50 minutes

MAKES: About 6 servings

6 ounces dried bean threads (saifun)
8 dried shiitake mushrooms (1 oz.)
  About 6 ounces beef flank steak (see notes for Korean barbecued
  beef, above)
4 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
5 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons sliced green onion, plus 3 whole green onions
1 tablespoon sugar
1 clove garlic, peeled and pressed or minced
1 yellow onion (8 oz.), peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch-thick
  slivers
1 cup coarsely shredded carrots
1 cup diagonally sliced (1/4 in. thick) green beans
  About 1/4 teaspoon pepper
  Salt
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

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1. In a 3-to 4-quart covered pan over high heat, bring 2 quarts water to a boil. Immerse bean threads in water and stir to separate; cover and remove from heat. Let stand until noodles are soft, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain well. With scissors, cut into 6-inch lengths.

2. Rinse mushrooms and place in a small bowl with enough hot water to cover; let stand until soft, about 15 minutes. Lift mushrooms from soaking liquid (reserve liquid for another use or discard) and squeeze dry. Cut stems off mushrooms and discard. Cut mushroom caps into 1/4-inch-wide strips.

3. Rinse beef and pat dry. Chop beef into 1/4-inch pieces. In a bowl, mix meat with 1 teaspoon sesame oil, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, sliced green onions, 1 teaspoon sugar, and the garlic. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

4. Meanwhile, trim root ends from green onions; cut into 2-inch lengths, including green tops.

5. In a 12-inch nonstick frying pan or a 5- to 6-quart nonstick pan over medium-high heat, stir 2 teaspoons sesame oil and the yellow onion until slightly softened but not limp, about 2 minutes. Pour into a large bowl. Return pan to medium-high heat, and add 1 more teaspoon sesame oil, the carrots, and the green onion lengths. Stir until green onions are slightly wilted, about 1 minute; add to bowl. Return pan to medium-high heat and add 2 more teaspoons sesame oil, the mushrooms, and the green beans; stir until mushrooms are lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add to bowl.

6. Return pan to medium-high heat; add 1 tablespoon sesame oil and the beef mixture. Stir until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes; add to bowl. Return pan to heat and add drained noodles, 3 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, 2 teaspoons sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper; stir until noodles are hot, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour into bowl with vegetable-beef mixture. Mix well, adding salt and pepper to taste. Pour into a bowl; sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Per serving: 299 cal., 39% (117 cal.) from fat; 8.2 g protein; 13 g fat (2.7 g sat.); 39 g carbo (3.3 g fiber); 892 mg sodium; 15 mg chol.

Kale Salad

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 10 minutes, plus 15 minutes to cool