Rolling forward: bike, walk, or take a tour of San Francisco's newly renovated Presidio

Sunset, June, 2004 by Lisa Taggart

Beyond, young families overflow from the former army barracks that now serve as apartment buildings on MacArthur Avenue near El Polin Spring, a burbling stream reported (back when its water was potable) to reward drinkers with fertility.

Around the spring's meadow, a father and daughter bicycle, she teetering despite training wheels. She rolls down the hill slowly, so cautious she's in danger of toppling. The father reaches out a hand to steady the back of her seat as she concentrates. It's a quiet, personal collaboration--and a snapshot of the Presidio's new harmony.

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Park planner

For general information, visit the William Penn Mott, Jr., Visitor Center at the Main Post (Moraga Ave., Building 50; www.nps.gov/prsf or 415/561-4323).

Best of the Presidio

Arion Press/M & H Type/Grabhorn Institute. The typefoundry dates to 1915; the press relocated to the Presidio three years ago. Gallery open 10-5 Mon-Fri, tours at 3 Thu ($7; reservations required). 1802 Hays St.; 415/561-2542.

Baker Beach. Golden Gate Bridge views. Parking off Gibson Rd.

Crissy Field. The 2-mile promenade's tidal marsh is home to native plants and birds. Crissy Field Center open 9-5 Wed-Sun (603 Mason St. at Halleck St.). Parking on Halleck St.; www.crissyfield.org or 415/561-7690.

Ecology Trail and Inspiration Point. Good viewpoint or launch spot for a hike. Off Arguello Blvd., 1/4 mile from Arguello Gate; the 1-mile trail leads to the Main Post.

EI Polin Spring. Small meadow is nice for picnics. End of MacArthur Ave. (park at MacArthur and Fernandez St.).

Fort Point National Historic Site. The hulking fortification under the Golden Gate Bridge dates to 1853. Fort is open 10-5 Fri-Sun, free guided tours at 3 Fri-Sun. 415/556-1693.

Historic forest. Planted by army officials in the 1880s. Drive along Washington Blvd. and Lincoln Blvd. for forest views.

Main Post. Where the Presidio began. Take a self-guided architectural walking tour (brochure at visitor center, above left).

Pet Cemetery. Beloved pets rest in peace. McDowell Ave. at Crissy Field Ave.

Presidio Bowling Center. 93 Montgomery St.; 415/561-2695.

San Francisco National Cemetery. Graves hold military heroes. Lincoln at Sheridan Ave.

Sports Basement. Discounted sports retailer. 610 Mason; 415/437-0100.

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Dining

Desiree Cafe. Healthful breakfasts and lunches. $; closed Sat-Sun. 39 Mesa St.; 415/561-2336.

Presidio Cafe. Clubhouse at the 1895 golf course. $$. Presidio Golf Course Clubhouse, 300 Finley Rd.; 415/561-4600.

Warming Hut Cafe & Bookstore. $. On the Golden Gate Promenade, across from Torpedo Wharf in Building 983; 415/561-3042.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTIN SUNDBERG