Perfect latkes: make crisp potato pancakes every time

Sunset, Dec, 2004 by Kate Washington

A little potato pancake knowledge goes a long way in December. Hanukkah wouldn't be itself without latkes. Other parties also come to life with potato-pancake appetizers. And the warm, crisp cakes make a great holiday side dish.

But latkes aren't all created equal: Choose a Yukon Gold potato over a russet and your cake is extra creamy on the inside; add another root vegetable and it takes on different flavors. Experiment with our variations to find your favorite formula.

Potato Pancakes

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 45 minutes, plus 30 minutes to soak potatoes

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

NOTES: You can substitute celery root, carrots, or sweet potatoes for 8 ounces of the potatoes; peel, shred, and add to water in step 1 (see "Better Shredding," page 112). You can also add 1 tablespoon chopped herbs in step 3.

  2 pounds russet or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and rinsed
  1 onion (8 oz.), peeled and halved, or 1/4 cup sliced green onions
  2 large eggs, beaten to blend
  3 tablespoons potato starch or all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper About 2 cups vegetable oil

1. Using a hand grater or food processor, shred potatoes, working over a large bowl of cold water or frequently transferring shredded potatoes to water. Shred onion and add to bowl (if using green onion, reserve). Let stand for 30 minutes.

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2. Drain potato mixture; wipe bowl clean. Follow steps 1 and 2 at right to dry potatoes; return them to bowl.

3. Add eggs, potato starch, salt, and pepper (and green onions, if using) to bowl and mix well.

4. Pour 1/2 inch oil into a 10- to 12-inch frying pan (with sides at least 2 in. tall) over medium-high heat. When surface of oil ripples slightly, shape potato mixture into cakes, following step 3 at right. Gently slide each from spatula into hot oil, 3 to 4 pancakes per batch (do not crowd pan). Cook until edges of pancakes are crisp and well browned and undersides are golden brown (lift with spatula to check), about 3 minutes. Turn and cook until remaining sides are golden brown, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer to paper towels to drain briefly, then keep warm in a 200[degrees] oven while you cook remaining pancakes. Serve hot.

Per serving: 466 cal., 73% (342 cal.) from fat; 5 g protein, 38 g fat (5.2 g sat.); 28 g carbo (2.2 g fiber); 222 mg sodium; 71 mg chol.

RELATED ARTICLE: Tips for success

The goal: pancakes that are light and crisp, not heavy or soggy. The trick is to soak the shredded potatoes to remove some of the starch (and keep them from changing color).

1 With your hands, squeeze excess water from a large handful of the potato mixture, then pile it on a clean kitchen towel.

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2 Enclose potatoes tightly in towel and twist it to wring out remaining moisture. Repeat to dry all potatoes, using fresh towels if needed.

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3 Shape each cake by scooping 1/3 cup of the potato mixture into one hand, then turn it onto a wide spatula. Flatten mixture into a pancake about 1/2 inch thick.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY LEIGH BEISCH