Cool noodle salads: make a summer lunch out of a fresh and lively Asian salad

Sunset, June, 2005 by Linda Lau Anusasananan

Naturally low in fat and compatible with a world of flavors, noodles lend themselves to healthy eating. Asians seem to have hit on this a long time ago, because in many Eastern cultures, long noodles symbolize long life. That's why it's traditional to eat them uncut. But if you're a novice Asian noodle eater and have trouble handling the long, slightly slippery tangles with chopsticks, don't be afraid to grab a fork.

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Noodle salads have crossed over from Asian menus to mainstream deli cases, with an amazing variety of ingredients. Our fresh-tasting versions are satisfying without being heavy. Keep some bean threads and rice and wheat noodles in your cupboard, ready to turn into these great cold main dishes.

Spicy Scallop and Bean Thread Noodle Salad

PREP AND COOK TIME: 30 minutes

MAKES: 3 or 4 servings

NOTES: Bean thread noodles are slippery; if they seem unmanageable, cut
them into shorter lengths with scissors after cooking.

  8    ounces Chinese long beans or
       slender green beans
  1    red bell pepper (8 oz.)
  8    ounces dried bean thread
       noodles (see "Four Types of
       Noodles," page 128)
 12    ounces bay scallops, rinsed
  1    tablespoon minced garlic
  2    teaspoons minced fresh ginger
  2    teaspoons vegetable oil
 1/2   teaspoon hot chile flakes
  3    tablespoons soy sauce
  3    tablespoons balsamic vinegar
  2    teaspoons sugar
 3/4   cup thinly sliced green onions
       (including green tops)

1. In a 5- to 6-quart nonstick pan over high heat, bring 2 1/2 to 3 quarts water to a boil. Mean-while, rinse beans; trim off stem ends and discard. Cut beans into 3-inch lengths. Rinse, stem, and seed bell pepper; cut into thin slivers 2 to 3 inches long.

2. Add beans to boiling water and return to a boil. Remove from heat and add bean threads and scallops; cover and let stand until scallops are barely opaque in center of thickest part (cut to test) and bean threads are barely tender to bite, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water until cool, and drain again thoroughly. Rinse and dry pan.

3. In same pan over high heat, stir garlic and ginger in oil just until garlic begins to brown, about 1 minute. Stir in chile flakes and remove from heat. Add soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar. Add noodle mixture, bell pepper, and green onions; mix gently. Mound on dinner plates or pour into a wide serving bowl.

Per serving: 352 cal., 8% (29 cal.) from fat; 17 g protein; 3.2 g fat (0.4 g sat.); 64 g carbo (3.3 g fiber); 923 mg sodium; 28 mg chol.

Chicken Noodle Salad with Sesame Vinaigrette

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 40 minutes

MAKES: 3 or 4 servings

NOTES: For efficiency, rinse and cut the carrots, celery, and bean
sprouts while cooking the chicken and rice noodles. You can prepare
this salad's components through step 2 up to 1 day ahead; cover
separately and chill.

  2    boned, skinned chicken breast halves
       (5 to 6 oz. each), rinsed
  8    ounces dried Asian wheat noodles (see
       "Four Types of Noodles," at left)
  3    tablespoons sesame seeds
  1    teaspoon vegetable oil
  1    tablespoon minced garlic
 1/2   cup rice vinegar
 1/3   cup soy sauce
  2    tablespoons sugar
 1/4   teaspoon cayenne
  2    carrots (6 oz. total), peeled and cut
       into 2-inch-long matchsticks
  2    stalks celery (5 oz. total), rinsed
       and thinly sliced diagonally
  4    cups bean sprouts (8 oz.), rinsed and
       drained
 1/3   cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

1. In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring 2 1/2 to 3 quarts water to a boil. Add chicken and return to a boil; cover and remove from heat. Let stand until chicken is no longer pink in center of thickest part (cut to test), about 18 minutes. If still pink, return water to a simmer, cover, remove from heat, and let stand for a few more minutes. With tongs, lift chicken from water; let cool. Tear chicken into 1/2-inch-thick shreds.

2. Return water to a boil over high heat. Add noodles and cook, stirring occasionally, until barely tender to bite, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water until cool, and drain again thoroughly. Rinse and dry pan.

3. In the pan, over medium heat, stir sesame seeds in oil until golden, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in garlic and remove from heat. Stir in vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, and cayenne. Spoon 3 tablespoons of the sesame vinaigrette into a small bowl and reserve. Add the noodles and half the carrots, celery, bean sprouts, and cilantro to pan; mix well.

4. Mound noodle mixture equally on dinner plates. Pour any dressing left in pan into bowl with reserved dressing. Top noodle mixture with remaining carrots, celery, and bean sprouts, then all the chicken. Sprinkle with remaining cilantro. Serve with reserved dressing to drizzle over chicken to taste.

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Per serving: 374 cal., 12% (44 cal.) from fat; 29 g protein; 4.9 g fat (0.8 g sat.); 58 g carbo (9.7 g fiber); 1,005 mg sodium; 41 mg chol.

Hot-and-Sour Beef and Rice Noodle Salad

PREP AND COOK TIME: About 50 minutes

MAKES: 4 servings

NOTES: You can prepare this salad through step 4 up to 4 hours ahead.
Cover and chill dressing, meat, and salads separately, then finish
assembly (step 5) just before serving.

   1    beef flank steak (about 1 lb.)
   8    ounces dried thin rice noodles (see "Four
        Types of Noodles," at left)
  1/2   cup lime juice
  1/4   cup Asian fish sauce (nuoc mam or nam pla)
        or soy sauce
  1/4   cup sugar (2 tablespoons if using soy sauce)
   1    tablespoon minced garlic
   3    to 4 teaspoons minced fresh serrano chiles
   2    quarts salad greens (5 oz.), rinsed and
        crisped
   1    cup cherry tomatoes (8 oz.), rinsed,
        stemmed, and halved
  1/2   cup thinly slivered red onion, rinsed
  1/3   cup fresh mint leaves, rinsed
  1/3   cup fresh cilantro leaves, rinsed