Cross-country getaways - back-country huts - directory

Sunset, Jan, 1989

There's a new generation of nordic ski retreats around the West . . . from posh lodges to back-country huts

Though it snowed all night, the brilliant blue of the morning sky now looks as dazzling as the fresh white blanket covering the ground. You're eager to lace up your boots, clip on your cross-country skis, grab your poles, and go. And nothing stops you: no need to shovel out your car, mess with chains, or negotiate slippery roads. Outside, a groomer has set new tracks-or a snow-filled alpine bowl awaits your first telemark turn. Skiing right outside your door is the most obvious appeal of lodgings just for crosscountry skiers. Another plus is what they don't have: the congestion of most downhill resorts or the whine of snowmobiles. Add evenings shared around the fire with people of like interests, and you have a formula for a successful skiing vacation. As the sport itself has grown and diversified over the past decade, so have the accommodations. Scores of nordic retreats around the West now offer an astonishing range of choices. Opt for a rustic ranch or historic hotel, a posh lodge, or a back-country yurt. Dine in an elegant restaurant, eat family-style in a raftered lodge, or gather around the woodstove for a communally prepared meal. Ski in machine-set tracks, or break a trail through newly fallen powder. Try out new nordic techniques, such as skating, or simply master the classic diagonal stride and telemark turn.

It's all possible. To help you choose, we found places that satisfy some basic requirements. All cater primarily or exclusively to nordic skiers; this means they aren't part of a downhill ski area, nor do they cater to snowmobilers. All lie in scenic country with adjacent skiing (no need for you to drive once there). Lessons are available, and meals are served on-site.

We then divided the selection into three broad categories:

Full-service resorts. Expect to find the most creature comforts at these locations: whirlpool baths, private rooms with bath, housekeeping. Most are accessible by car. All offer 20 kilometers or more of machine-set tracks, as well as access to backcountry skiing. Rentals are available on the premises. At each resort, you'll find enough varied ski terrain and other activities to keep you busy for several days.

Off-road lodges. These snowbound hideaways cater to skiers who want to get away from it all but don't want to ski all day with a pack to do it. Most are on quiet roads passed up by the plows; to get there, you may have to ski in a short distance (gear is carried in by snowcat) or catch a ride on a snowcat yourself.

Ski-in back-country huts. Getting to these remote wilderness outposts, even in the company of an expert guide, can be arduous: you pack in most of your own gear. But once you get there, the solitude and skiing-can be unsurpassed. Shelter is more spartan, but woodstoves and hearty food create an atmosphere of cozy camaraderie. You use one hut as a base camp for unburdened day trips, or cover a lot of ground by skiing hut to hut.

FULL-SERVICE RESORTS

Family-style to deluxe lodging, some with meals included. Groomed trails, back-country tours

There's a world of difference among these resorts-in lodging, skiing, service, apresski and children's activities, and meals. We mention some differences here; call or write for more details.

The rates we give are for two people, double occupancy; an * indicates all meals included. A deluxe lodge with rates up to $300 a night might include everything two people need for a complete ski vacation; others charge extra for lessons, rentals, tours, sleigh rides, or meals. Ask about packages and low-season, long-stay, or family discounts.

Also ask about snow conditions (some resorts have snow-making equipment). Check what kind of grooming is done (multiple tracks, skating lanes), how often, and with what (a Pisten-Bully is the Rolls-Royce of track-setting machines).

Are instructors certified? Can you rent different types of gear, such as telemarking skis? How many rental sets are available (enough for all guests)? Ask if rentals are replaced yearly (a good sign). Is the resort close enough to downhill facilities for some alpine skiing?

Arizona. Mormon Lake Lodge, Box 12, Mormon Lake 86038; (602) 354-2227; $45 to $75. Expect plenty of sun, powder, and wildlife here. The lodge lies at 7,200 feet on the Colorado Plateau; 80 guests stay in cabins (some have kitchens and fireplaces), or in simple duplexes (none with kitchens).

California. Montecito-Sequoia, Box 858, Grant Grove 93633; (415) 967-8612; $140.* Perched at 7,500 feet, this resort is surrounded by spectacular Sequoia and Kings Canyon national parks; 125 guests stay in a newly renovated main lodge or neighboring buildings. Features include back-country tours and family activities. Sorensen's, Hope Valley96120; (916) 694-2203; $50 to $175. Guests (75) stay in snug log cabins (sleep 2 to 6); most have kitchens and woodstoves, and all have housekeeping, Skiing is in the Hope Valley region (elevation 7,000), 20 miles southeast of Lake Tahoe. After ski, enjoy cocoa in the lodge, or take a sauna.