Cool cooking in the microwave - recipes - The Good Foods of Summer: A Special Section

Sunset, July, 1990

A billowy puff of white meringue, piled high and cooked in the microwave just enough to slightly firm its tiny bubbles, makes an ideal backdrop for a spectrum of summer fruits. In this light-to-rich (as your taste dictates) dessert, the partners are berries, but also consider sweet slices of ripe plums, peaches, and nectarines-alone, or in combination with berries.

It's important to cook the meringue just enough to bring the internal temperature to 140 degrees but not to heat it further-otherwise, the bubbles begin to collapse and the cloud shrinks and gets rubbery in the center. To check the temperature, use your microwave probe or a quick-register thermometer.

You have a series of options to add variety to this simple dessert. The lightest version is the meringue alone with the berries; or make the custard sauce, using low-fat or whole milk, and serve it hot or cold. Or omit the custard and offer whipped cream in its place. If you serve the tender foamy meringue warm with cool whipped cream, the contrast of textures and temperatures is particularly pleasing. For complete indulgence, also serve the custard.

  Microwave Maringue Cloud
   4 large egg whites
   1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
   1/2 cup sugar
     Ground nutmeg  optional)
   3 to 4 cups rinsed and drained
     berries such as hulled strawberries,
     raspberries, blueberries,
     boysenberries, and blackberries (all
     of 1 kind or a mixture)
     Custard sauce (recipe follows)
     Sweetened whipped cream
     (optional)

In a large bowl, combine egg whites and cream of tartar. Beat at high speed with an electric mixer until whites are foamy. Continue beating at high speed and add sugar, about I tablespoon at a time, until whites hold stiff peaks.

Onto a shallow-rimmed microwave-safe platter (at least 10 in. wide), pile spoonfuls of the meringue into a tall mound that is about 5 inches at the base. If you like, swirl meringue decoratively, using a narrow spatula. Cook, uncovered, in a microwave oven on half-power (50 percent) until meringue is softly set when touched lightly and temperature in center is 140 degrees (watch closely, and use the microwave probe or a quick-register thermometer), 1 to 2 minutes; check after 1 minute, rotate platter 180 degrees, then cook in 15-second intervals just until done. (If overcooked, meringue condenses in the center and gets tough.)

Serve meringue warm, or let stand up to 1 hour (on longer standing, it begins to weep-release a clear liquid). If desired, sprinkle a little nutmeg onto meringue, then surround with berries. To serve, cut meringue into wedges or scoop with spoon and place in dessert bowls. Add fruit and custard sauce or whipped cream (or both) to taste. Serves 6.

Per serving meringue with berries. 107 cal; 2.8 g protein; 24 g fat, 24 g carbo.; 38 mg sodium, 0 mg chol

Custard sauce. In a 1 -quart glass measuring cup, whisk to blend 4 large egg yolks, 1/4 cup sugar, and 1 1/2 cups low-fat or regular milk. Cook, uncovered, in a microwave oven on half-power (50 percent), stirring well with a whisk every 2 minutes until custard is thick enough to opaquely coat a metal spoon, 6 to 10 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and 1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg. Serve hot, warm, or chilled; if made ahead, cover and chill until cold, about 2 hours, or up until next day. Makes about 1 2/3 cups.

Per 14 cup sauce. 103 cal.; 3.9 g protein; 4.6 g fat; 12 g carbo.; 35 mg sodium; 147 mg chol