Marin trails to history - Marin County's state parks, California

Hold up a map of Marin County's recreation areas, and it looks as if all the major parks had slid south. But just-opened Rancho Olompali State Historic Park, in Novato, now adds new parkland to northern Marin. And China Camp State Park, not far south of it in San Rafael (but administered with Olompali), has opened up more of its terrain with two new trails.

Both places have good view hiking, and if rain hasn't muddied trails recentlyChina Camp has mountain biking. Dogs are not allowed at either park. Rancho Olompali State Historic Park This 700-acre facility has a range of historical significance: it was a major Miwok Indian trading village (archeologists have made important finds here); Sir Francis Drake's expedition may have paused nearby (a silver sixpence dating from 1567 was found here); a skirmish in the Bear Flag Revolt took place at the Olompali adobe; later, it became a thriving ranch of almost 9,000 acres. The ranch manager's Victorian home still stands, as do two softly weathered barns (note the Indian grinding rock near the larger one), an 1840 adobe, and a blacksmith shop from the late 1800s. All the buildings are being restored and are not yet open to visitors. But you can hike on the old ranch road. Park in the lot and walk up the road 13/4 miles, passing the buildings and old walnut groves, then climbing through coast live oaks near the summit of 1,558-foot Burdell Mountain and views over San Pablo Bay. Olompali is now designated both as a state historic landmark and as a federal historic place. An early proposal to build condominiums here spurred formation of Olompali People, a group that fought to save the land for public use. The state bought the property 13 years ago but awaited completion of a general plan and archeological work before opening it to the public. The park is open ($5) from 8 to 5 Fridays through Mondays. The entrance, just north of Novato off U.S. 101, has no northbound access from 101; coming from the south, leave 101 and drive west on San Antonio Road, then backtrack about 21/2 miles on 101 to the park. China Camp State Park Jutting out into San Pablo Bay, 1,514acre China Camp contains what's left of the last and largest of the bay's 29 shrimping villages. During the 1880s, Chinese fishermen netted the abundant grass shrimp here, dried them, and shipped them back to China. (Strict fishing laws put all but this one operation out of business after 191 1.) At the historic area, you can still walk the creaky old fishing pier and wander past the sheds and drying tables. You can also picnic on the pebbly beach. The new Shoreline Trail leads from the historic area (park here; 5), heads across Point San Pedro Road, then forks. The left (south) fork is a short spur to a view point; the right fork leads northwest through chaparral and grasslands. This wide trail (2 miles one way) affords views almost the whole stretch, as it parallels the roadway (and for cyclists, it's a safer alternative to the adjacent narrow, twisting road). Backtrack from the trail's end for an easy 4-mile walk. Or try the new Bayview Trail, which starts at the entrance to Back Ranch Meadows Campground (park outside the entrance on San Pedro Road). This climbs 800 feet up a ravine into chaparral, coast laurel, and oak to follow a powerline access road; then you swing down the Back Ranch Meadows trail, making a 3 1/2-mile loop. The campground has 30 sites ($9 per night) available through Mistix; call (800) 765-2267. From U.S. 101 northbound, take the Point San Pedro Road/Civic Center exit east to the park; southbound, leave U.S. 101 a few miles farther north, driving east on N. San Pedro Road.