Kamehameha's Coast on the Big Island, you can follow the historic footsteps of Hawaii's legendary ruler … past new luxury resorts, secluded beaches, ancient temples

At first glance, especially from the highway, the dry, lava-scarred plain edging the Big Island's northwest shoreline looks like any other fast-developing luxury resort area: big new hotels amid acres of green fairway. But take another, closer look. What about that worn rock footpath? Those figures scratched into the lava? Just what are those strange, long walls of mounded stone? Those lava-rock enclosures? Carefully sheltered in the headlong rush to develop this coast are some of the last-and best-remnants of early Hawaiian history.

While some sites date back hundreds of years, many also relate directly to the life and times of the island chain's preeminent leader: Kamehameha 1, unifier and first ruler of the Kingdom of Hawaii. Following a king's footsteps. The most interesting way to explore this "Kamehameha Coast" is to follow the king's own life story. Many sites-from the coast's northern tip, where he was born, south to Kona, where he died-are now protected and open to the public. While the history may entice you, it isn't the only appeal of these areas. They also give you opportunities for hiking, snorkeling, picnicking, even horseback riding. And the small up-country community of Waimea, headquarters of the Parker Ranch, offers a growing number of restaurant, shopping, and bed-and-breakfast alternatives to the pricey resorts hugging the coast (see page 50). Preparing for your visit. While winter storms can drench even this normally sunny coastline and high surf can make swimming dangerous, this season is the coolest time for exploring. One unpredictable condition is "vog." As long as the volcanic eruption of Kilauea continues on the other side of the island, winds will sometimes carry smoke and steam that can cast an acrid pall over the usually clear coast. The most accurate, concise, and readable history of Hawaii that we've found is the 1974 book, Shoal of Time, by Gavan Daws ($9.95). The map we like best is "The Reference Map of the Island of Hawaii" ($2.95). Both are available in Hawaii bookstores or from their publisher, the University of Hawaii Press, 2840 Kolowalu St., Honolulu 96822. North Kohala A royal youth Kamehameha was born near Mookini Heiau (temple), possibly daring a visit of Halley's Comet in 1758. Raised in the family of the island's ruling chief, he spent part of his childhood in nearby villages. More than a century of growing cattle and sugar cane has left the tip of the Big Island relatively undeveloped, with dramatic scenery that makes a North Kohala loop drive a rewarding excursion. Pack up your beach bag (bring plenty of water) and start early enough to arrive in Kawaihae after 8, when shops in the small center should be open for basic picnic supplies. Kohala Divers (808/882-7774) rents mask, snorkel, and fins for $ 10 a day (scuba gear and trips also available) and can advise on sea conditions. First stop, Lapakahi. State Highway 270 leads north 11 miles to Lapakahi State Historical Park, site of a 600-year-oid fishing village. It's free, open from 8 to 4 daily except holidays. Imagine thatched roofs slanting above the lava walls and, with help from the printed guide available at the hut just below the parking lot, the old village comes alive. Try your hand at Hawaiian games such as spear throwing or stone rolling, or make some salt in a hollowed lava rock. The rough, palm-dotted coral beach is a good place for a picnic. And there's excellent snorkeling in a marine life conservation district (no collecting) that extends north a mile to Mahukona Beach County Park. Seas tend to be calmest-and clearest-early in the day. There's no dependable fresh water here, but you can get a rinse a mile up the highway at Mahukona Beach. Look for a pipe protruding from rocks behind the old sugar pier (another place to snorkel). A grassy picnic area is nearby. To Hawi and beyond. It's 6 more miles to the small farm town of Hawi (approaching it, note the single-lane turnoff to Upolu Airport on the left at milepost 20). Continue another 2 miles to Kapaau, treat yourself to locally made ice cream at Tropical Dreams, and then wander over to the statue of King Kamehameha in front of the community center. Lost in a shipwreck off the Falkland Islands, the statue was retrieved and delivered after another had been ordered; the duplicate now stands in front of the Supreme Court building in Honolulu. The road continues another 6 miles east to an overlook of the lush Pololu Valley. "Chicken skin" at Mookini. Late afternoon is the best time to backtrack to the airport turnoff. Follow it along a row of ironwood trees 1.8 miles to a dirt road, turn left, and take the rutted washboard past livestock and sugar cane another 1.8 miles to Mookini Heiau. Set on a high bluff where the only sound is the wind, this is the kind of place Hawaiians say gives you "chicken skin." Recognized as one of the state's most important ancient religious sites, Mookini is a luakini heiau-a temple reserved for ruling chiefs and for human sacrifice. According to one legend, it was erected in a single night. The slanting afternoon sunlight defines high lava-rock walls and an inner ceremonial platform, where Kahuna Nui Leimomi Mookini Lum, a direct descendant of the first high priest, occasionally performs ceremonies. Rocks or offerings wrapped in ti leaves or leis symbolize prayers; like other objects you might see in the temple, they should not be touched. After Mookini, the 1/2 mile to Kamehameha's birthplace-a stony flat inside a lava wall-seems anticlimactic. Time your visit so you're back on the highway an hour before sunset. You can return to Waimea via the coast (this time of year, look for whale spouts highlighted by the setting sun) or along the slower but spectacular Kohala Mountain Road (State 250). Climbing high above the coast, Kohala Mountain Road winds nearly 20 miles through open cattle country. At milepost 11, look for Ironwood Outfitters (8854941), near the entrance to Kohala Ranch. Guided I 1/2- to 21/2-hour trail rides in the surrounding country (once farmed by ancient Hawaiians) are offered daily between 8 and 3:30; costs start at $40. North Kona Encountering Cook In late 1778, Kamehameha met Captain Cook aboard the Resolution during his second voyage to the "Sandwich islands." in February 1779, Cook was slain on the shore of Kealakekua Bay; Kamehameha was reportedly on the beach and it was later claimed that he had Cook's hair. Soon after, the ruling chief of Hawaii gave Kamehameha custody of the red-feathered war god, Kukailimoka. While much of the Kona coast north of Kealakekua Bay has been heavily developed in recent years, the bay itself and the coastline south to Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park are worth the 22-mile drive south from Kailua. Again, it's best to start early. The visitor center is open 7:30 to 5:30 daily (admission is $1 per person), and the park should be quiet until tour buses begin arriving around midmorning. While it's still cool, follow the self-guiding temple trail. Mausoleam of chiefs. The last accessible site of its kind, the puuhonua (place of refuge) of Honaunau was one of at least six around the island. A great wall built in the mid-1500s outlines the refuge area, where defeated warriors and villagers seeking shelter during battles found safety, and where kapu-breakers found absolution. At the wall's north end, the Hale o Keawe Heiau (reconstructed above the rock foundation) held the bones of 23 Hawaiian chiefs. Under thatched shelters near the visitor center, you'll find demonstrations of old Hawaiian crafts between 9 and 4 most days. This year's annual cultural festival will be held June 28, 29, and 30, when you can join games, learn crafts, sample food, and see traditional hula. Cook's last stand. From the park, follow the narrow, roughly paved coast road north 4 miles to Napoopoo Beach County Park on the southern crescent of Kealakekua Bay. The picnic area is often littered, but unless the surf is up, this beach is a good spot for a swim. Still standing is Hikiau Heiau, a temple to the god Lono. Here Captain Cook (with the blessing of priests, who thought e was that god) set up a scientific station next to the platform. The white obelisk on the far side of the bay stands roughly above the area where Cook met his fate. The road from Napoopoo leads up to the small town of Captain Cook, where you can have lunch at the old Manago Hotel (a clean but simple room with private bath and lanai starts around $32). Another good lunch stop 3 miles up the road in Kainaliu is the Aloha Theater Cafe. South Kohala A kingdom is won Years passed in futile fighting for control of the Big Island until, in 1791, Kamehameha completed a major new luakini heiau dedicated to his god of war. He invited his rival, Keoua, to the dedication-but when Keoua arrived on the beach below the temple, he was killed. With one quick act, Kamehameha became ruler of the island, and Keoua became the temple's first human sacrifice. The desert coast of South Kohala-cattle country since Captain George Vancouver gave Kamehameha a bull and a cow in 1793-is now the state's hottest new resort area. Yet scattered among the hotels (see page 50) are some of the coast's most interesting historic sites. A war god's temple. Today the reddish rocky bulk of Kamehameha's war heiau on Puukohola, 1 mile south of Kawaihae, has been painstakingly restored. Though the temple is a national historic site, it is still a religious center, so you may walk only around the exterior walls. A visitor center, open from 7:30 to 4 daily, has a model that shows what's inside. A short trail leads from the heiau down to the beach (swimming not recommended) where Keoua was killed. On August 17, a unique Hawaiian ceremony will celebrate Puukohola's bicentenary. While development is undeniably changing the coast, no resort area has done more to protect and interpret valuable historic sites than Mauna Lani, about 7 miles south of Puukohola. Standing apart from two major hotels and condominiums are restored working fish ponds, a fishing settlement visited by Kamehameha, and 3 miles of ancient coastal trail. Adjoining the property are the Puako petroglyph fields, one of the state's most extensive remnants of ancient rock art. A new trail and a viewing area improve both art protection and visitor access. View into the Past, an excellent self-guided walking tour of Mauna Lani's historic sites, is free at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel, or write to Mauna Lani Resort, Box 4959, Kohala Coast, Hawaii 96743. Hiking undeveloped coastline. One of the area's least-known legacies is the remnant of an ancient trail edging the coast. Thanks to the preservation efforts of Na Ala Hele, a volunteer group that has helped establish a statewide trail system, you can today walk segments of this ancient Hawaiian footpath. One undeveloped section, which leads past several isolated coves and rocky points where locals still fish with throw nets, leads 2 miles south of Kona Village Resort. Start early, wear sturdy shoes, and take water, a hat, and sun screen. Start early enough, and you may get one of the dozen public access parking spots that Kona Village Resort is required to provide; sign in with the guard at the highway gate. Otherwise, drive south 3/4 mile to a rough gravel road on the right. Park near the highway (remove valuables) and walk 1/2 mile to Kua Bay. Amble up the beach to connect with the trail at the bay's north end. Set in the sharp lava bed, smooth stones form a trail that runs to Kona Village Resort. Another option is to hike south nearly 2 miles from Kua Bay (the first mile is over rough coral and rock) to a large beach at Makalawena. Kailua The king's final days By 1810, Kamehameha had brought all the islands under his rule from his base in Honolulu. He moved the government back to Hawaii in 1812, established a residence in Kailma, and spent his last years fishing and farming. After his death in 1819, his bones were cleaned and hidden. One quiet surprise amid the touristy congestion of Kailua is a 1/2-scale replica of the heiau that was on the site where Kamehameha died. It's on the grounds of the Hotel King Kamehameha; ask at the front desk for tour information. Nearby Hulihee Palace, built in 1838 and later used as a vacation retreat for Hawaiian royalty, is now a museum offering a fascinating glimpse at how royal families lived. It's open from 9 to 4 daily; admission is $4 for adults, $1 for ages 12 through 18. Some historians believe Kamehameha's bones were hidden in or near fish ponds he favored, at Kaloko. These ponds and surrounding village sites are being slowly restored as part of Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park. From Kailua, drive north on State 19 about 2 miles to the turnoff to Honokohau Harbor. Continue north on the highway another 11/4 miles, then turn left through a gate (open 7:30 to 4) on a gravel road leading 3/4 mile to the ponds. The ponds were used to raise fish, which included Kamehameha's favorites-moi, mullet, and awa. On the drive out, stop to look at the low rock walls of house enclosures and try to spot petroglyphs on smooth lava. As for the burial site, the chiefs who hid the royal remains kept the secret, saying "The morning star alone knows where Kamehameha's bones are guarded." n They're big. They're gorgeous. And each delivers its own style of luxury, from glitzy to gracious, in its own carefully packaged way. But while the six resorts (with associated condominiums) on the coast north of Kailua may be the island's most luxurious (with prices to prove it), they aren't the only options. Bed-and-breakfast choices Cottages. During our most recent visit, we found a half-dozen bed-and-breakfast cottages in or near Waimea. All are either separate buildings or have private entrances; all provide supplies for making your own breakfast. Unless noted, they sleep up to four persons; prices are for double occupancy, with a $15 charge for each extra person, and a three-night minimum stay is required. With one exception, you can book these popular retreats in advance through Hawaii's Best Bed & Breakfasts (address below right). Heidi's Country Cottage, 85. Two-bedroom cottage in Waimea. Fireplace. Walk to restaurants. Waimea Gardens Cottages, 85. Three persons maximum. Two country-style units on edge of Waimea (one has a fireplace) with French doors opening to garden and nearby stream. Hawaii Country Cottage, $75. Three persons maximum. Separate living room and bedroom in private wing of Waimea house. Fireplace. Koa Lane Cottage, $75. Two-night minimum. Cottage in Waimea has living room, bedroom, and French doors out to deck with Mauna Kea view. Pua Manu Cottage, $105. Converted barn near Waimea with two bedrooms and living room with fireplace. Puu Maile Farm, $75 ($7.50 per extra person). Two-night minimum. Swiss-style barn on working farm near Waimea. Two bedrooms with living room. Reserve by writing to Box 1168, Kamuela 96743, or by calling (808) 885-7733. Basic B & Bs. Other bed-and-breakfast arrangements are, typically, in private residences. They can be as simple as a spare bedroom, shared bath, breakfast with the family. Rates start at $40 per couple per night. Big Island agencies include: Hawaii's Best Bed & Breakfasts, Box 563, Kamuela, Hawaii 96743; (808) 885-4550. My Island B & B, Box 100, Volcano, Hawaii 96785; (808) 967-71 10. So, spoil yourself For those who want to be pampered, the deluxe coastal resort hotels do offer their own allure. We list them from north to south, with current basic double-occupancy rates. For brochures, write to Kohala Coast Resort Association, Box 5000, Kohala Coast, Hawaii 96743. Mauna Kea Beach Hotel (310 rooms, $250 per night) is oldest (1965) and most formal (coat and tie for dinner), with a superb art collection. Ritz-Carlton, Mauna Lani (542 rooms, $250) opened in December and reflects that chain's flair for elegance. Manna Lani Bay (354 rooms, $260) is gracious, with comfort and service stressed over contrived opulence. Hyatt Regency Waikoloa (1,241 rooms, $235) is pure fantasy-with canal gondolas, tram, an endless pool with water slide, and grandiose architecture. Royal Waikoloan (543 rooms, $110) is an older hotel (originally a Sheraton) that just completed a $10-million facelift. Kona Village Resort (125 rooms, $375 for two, including meals) has Polynesian-style beachfront bungalows (no phone or television) in a lush garden setting.