Not Crater Lake, it's Newberry … the West's newest national monument - Newberry National Volcanic Monument, Oregon

Sunset, July, 1991

In the heart of Oregon's lava country, the West's newest national monument adds a midstate vacation destination between Bend and Crater Lake. Designated last November and slated for dedication on June 30, 56,000-acre Newberry NationaI Volcanic Monument stretches from Newberry Crater, near the small town of La Pine, north 28 miles to Bend, with its many resorts, dude ranches, and recreational opportunities.

The landscape comprises obsidian fields, deep mountain lakes, lava formations, and waterfalls. Though the monument's centerpiece, 18-square-mile Newberry Crater, may lack Crater Lake's startling first impression, its wilderness lakes, campgrounds, and trails are more accessible and less crowded. A visit to Newberry-administered by the Forest Service-can take as little as a few hours to drive into the caldera, see Paulina and East lakes, and enjoy views from Paulina Peak. Or take three or four days to camp, hike, fish, and explore. While the monument has many attractions, we've chosen to focus on outdoor activities in its southern area, around the crater. Warmer midsummer weather makes camping appealing, but be prepared for wide temperature swings: July and August daytime temperatures range from 70' to over 100', and drop as low as 30' to 50' at night. Camp, fish, and hike inside a caldera From La Pine, it's a 6-mile drive north along US. 97 to County Road 21 (Newberry Crater Road), which leads to the monument. (Through summer, Road 21 may have 30-minute delays for construction.) The crater lies well hidden as Road 21 climbs the 13 miles eastward along its sloping pine-forested shoulder. In about 1/2 hour, you cross the rim and emerge at the west end of Paulina Lake. Newberry Crater was formed by volcanic events that began about 500,000 years ago. Its most recent eruption, about 1,300 years ago, sent lava tumbling down the southern rim, leaving a wide swath of obsidian as it cooled. Cupped in the caldera lie two of the best fishing lakes in Oregon-Paulina and East-as well as two rustic resorts, seven campgrounds, numerous surrounding hiking trails, and view points. Where to stay. Paulina Lake Resort, built in 1929 on the west shore, is the lake's fishing hub. Its dozen one- to three-bedroom modernized log cabins cost $50 to $105 per night. For reservations, call (503) 536-2240 well in advance. The resort serves hearty lunches and dinners ($3 to $13) in its small log-beamed dining room or out on a deck; the homemade pie A la mode is irresistible. A general store sells snacks and beverages along with fishing licenses and tackle. You can rent canoes ($12 to 19), motorboats ($8 to $30), rowboats ($5 to $19), or moorage ($6). Motorists will find a convenient but expensive fuel pump here. Five miles beyond Paulina lies quiet East Lake Resort. Rows of green-roofed red cabins (I I in all; $48 to $74 per night) have small kitchens and face west across the lake. The resort's simple restaurant serves breakfast and lunch ($2 to $7), dinner on request. East Lake also offers a general store with boat rentals ($12 to $30), pay telephones, and the area's only RV park ($10; public showers and laundry). As at Paulina, cabin reservations should be made early; call 536-2230. If you prefer to camp, five individual campgrounds, one group area, and a horse campground-315 sites in all are within the caldera. Along Newberry Crater Road beside Paulina Creek are two individual campgrounds, Prairie and McKay Crossing, and a group camp, Ogden. Reserve Ogden and the caldera group and horse camps ahead; call 388-5664. Other camps (free to $8) are first come, first served, and with the exception of Hot Springs (near East Lake) are along the creek or one of the lakes. Fishing. Trout limit reductions and the practice of catch-and-release fishing by conservation-minded anglers have meant bigger and better catches each season in both Paulina and East lakes. No streams feed these trophy trout lakes, which are regularly stocked with brown, rainbow, and brook trout. Paulina is also stocked with kokanee, a landlocked salmon; in 1990, East was experimentally stocked with Atlantic salmon. There's a five-fish limit, and an Oregon fishing license is required. Boats' speed must be kept under 10 mph. Hiking. Newberry Crater's six main trails vary from easy 7/8-mile Big Obsidian Flow to steep 2.1-mile Paulina Peak. The longest is 22-mile Crator Rim Trail, a one- to two-day route. The 3 1/2-mile Little Crater Trail loops around the small hill between Paulina and East lakes; 71/2-mile Paulina Lake Loop follows the shoreline. The 8 1/2-mile Peter Skene Ogden Trail, named for the trapper who discovered the lakes in 1826, begins at Ogden Group Camp off County Road 21 and climbs along the lake's outlet, Paulina Creek, before passing 100-foot-high Paulina Falls about 1/2 mile from trail's end near the resort. For a one-way trip, you may want to hike down from the resort and arrange for a shuttle pickup at Ogden Group. You can also hike just the lower 2 3/4-mile section from Ogden to McKay Crossing Campground, or the upper 5 3/4 miles from McKay Crossing to the lake. Horses are permitted on most trails; mountain bikes are discouraged (policy still pending). Interpretive programs. Throughout summer, activities include naturalist-led walks, flintknapping or arrowhead manufacture, and campfire programs at a small outdoor amphitheater. Ask at the information center (open through September 2), on County Road 21 just inside the rim, about upcoming talks. Maps and displays of the area can also be viewed here. ri