Head for the hills … or the beach - 10 great summer retreats

Sunset, July, 1993 by Peter Fish, Marcia Williamson, David Lansing, Matthew Jaffe, Lora J. Finnegan

At the boot's toe, Silver Lake Resort (648-7525) has 14 rustic cabins that go for $50 to $150 a night. They're usually booked well in advance, but you can always hope for a cancellation.

The Forest Service Visitor Center in Mammoth Lakes (934-2505) has hiking maps of the area indicating each trail's difficulty. Near Silver Lake is Frontier Pack Train (648-7701), where Dink Getty and his wranglers lead guided rides around the Eastern Sierra.

KERN CANYON: Big trees and big water

Kernville and Upper Kern Canyon offer the classic elements of a summer vacation: clean air, water, and pretty country.

We've often used the canyon as a jumping-off point for Sierra hiking. In an hour or so, you can get up to giant sequoia country, where one short and easy-to-reach hike is Trail of a Hundred Giants, just off Western Divide Highway, about 45 miles north of Kernville. Another hiking destination near Kernville is Big Meadow, which serves as a hub for several trails, including access into Dome Land Wilderness. In the canyon itself, you can hike above the roaring waters of the Kern River along the River Trail, 19 miles north of Kernville. For more information on local trails, stop in at Sequoia National Forest's Kernville Ranger Station (619/376-3781).

For those who aren't content to merely watch the river, several companies offer rafting trips into the raging Kern, ranging from an hour to three days; try Kern River Tours (379-4616) or Sierra South (376-3745).

When it comes to eating in these parts, expect hearty meals. McNally's Fairview Lodge and Restaurant (376-2430), and Road's End Resort and Tender House Restaurant (376-6562), both about 15 miles north of Kernville, are good bets, especially if you're returning from some of the hiking areas. Closer to Kernville, try Ewing's On The Kern (376-2411) or Cheyenne's Stage Stop (376-6175). In town, we enjoyed the breakfast at Whitewater Cafe (376-6823), on Kernville Road.

For lodging, Whispering Pines Lodge Bed & Breakfast (376-3733) has a knotty-pine ambience and rooms from $79. Another good spot for river views and country style is Kern River Inn Bed & Breakfast (376-6750), also with rooms starting at $79. Finally, the Lazy River Lodge (376-2242) has cabins along the river starting at $52. Camping is available along the river, but check with the Forest Service, because spots can get scarce on the weekends.

SOUTH MENDOCINO COAST: Gorgeous Gualala to excellent Elk

This stretch of southern Mendocino County serves up the main ingredients visitors love about the town of Mendocino--craggy coastline, Victorian architecture, cozy inns. All the recipe lacks are the crowds drawn to the more famous village up the coast.

Gualala, once a logging mill town, now has a burgeoning art community. The Gualala Arts Center shows members' and others' works in its gallery in the Sundstrom Mall. We also liked Woodbridge Gallery, run by a pair of escapees from the hectic Los Angeles art scene; it features oil paintings and watercolors from Western artists.