Secrets, and recipes, of top bread bakers - recipes

Sunset, Jan, 1994 by Elaine Johnson

Professional' tips help produce dramatic results

ASK TODAY'S ARTISAN BAKERS WHAT MAKES THEIR bread so good, and the first tip they mention is a slow rise. By letting dough proof at room temperature (70 |degress~ to 75 |degrees~) rather than up to 85 |degrees~ as is typical with most bread recipes, the bread develops a much more complex flavor and interesting texture. Some bakers mix up part of the dough ahead, in a sponge or Italian yeast starter (called a biga) to enhance flavor and texture even more.

The catch, of course, is that the extra steps and slower rises require more time. But for a truly satisfying home-baked loaf, it's well worth a little patience.

Another tip for home bakers is a baking stone, also called a pizza stone, used to duplicate professionals' thicker, crisper crusts. Baking stones are sold with gourmet cookware. (Or you can use a regular baking sheet.)

Professional bakers have one more secret: beautiful shaping. Each of these loaves is exceptionally attractive.

The recipes come from top Western bakeries: Fran Gage Patisserie Francaise in San Francisco, Il Fornaio of California, and Grand Central Bakery in Seattle.

When you make a loaf, pick a day when your schedule is relaxed. For rising, choose a draft-free corner of your kitchen; you can place the dough under a lamp if the kitchen is very cool.

For kneading, use one of these methods:

If using an electric mixer with dough hook, beat on high speed until dough no longer feels sticky and pulls cleanly from bowl, about 8 minutes; if necessary, add more bread flour 2 tablespoons at a time until dough meets both tests.

If mixing by hand, turn onto a lightly floured board and knead, adding more bread flour as required to prevent sticking, until dough is smooth and no longer sticky, 10 to 15 minutes.

Fran Gage's Pain aux Noix

1 package active dry yeast

1 1/4 cups cool tap water

1/4 cup salad oil

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 cup walnut pieces

1 1/3 cups whole-wheat flour

About 1 2/3 cups unbleached bread flour

8 walnut halves

In the large bowl of an electric mixer, or in another bowl, sprinkle yeast over water and let stand until dissolved, about 5 minutes. Add oil, salt, walnut pieces, whole-wheat flour, and 1 1/3 cups bread flour. Mix with paddle attachment or a spoon until blended.

Beat with dough hook or knead dough by hand, as directed above.

Place dough in an oiled bowl, turn over to oil top, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise at 70 |degrees~ to 75 |degrees~ until doubled, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Punch down dough and knead briefly on a lightly floured board to expel air. Divide in half. On floured board, shape each piece into a triangle 3/4 inch thick and 6 inches on a side. Place on a well-floured baking sheet.

Cover lightly with plastic wrap and let rise at 70 |degrees~ to 75 |degrees~ until loaves are puffy and hold a faint impression when lightly pressed, about 1 hour. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a 14- by 16-inch baking stone or 12- by 15-inch baking sheet in the oven and heat to 400 |degrees~.

Place a ruler flat down center of a loaf and sprinkle uncovered parts with 3/4 teaspoon bread flour. Remove ruler and press 4 walnut halves into unfloured portion. Repeat with other loaf.

Slide loaves onto stone and bake until deep golden, about 30 minutes. Lift loaves to a rack to cool. Makes 2 loaves, each 14 ounces.

Per ounce: 100 cal. (48 percent from fat); 2.6 g protein; 5.3 g fat (0.5 g sat.); 11.2 g carbo.; 119 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Il Fornaio's Panmarino

This recipe is an adaptation of one from Franco Galli's The Il Fornaio Baking Book (Chronicle Books, 1993).

3/4 teaspoon active dry yeast

1 cup cool tap water

1/4 cup biga (recipe follows) at room temperature

2 tablespoons milk

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh rosemary

3/4 teaspoon regular salt

3 to 3 1/4 cups unbleached bread flour

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

In the large bowl of an electric mixer, or in another bowl, sprinkle yeast over water and let stand until dissolved, about 5 minutes. Add biga, milk, rosemary, regular salt, and 2 cups flour. With dough hook or spoon, mix in 3/4 cup more flour.

Beat with dough hook or knead by hand, as directed above.

Place dough in an oiled bowl, turn over to oil top, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise at 70 |degrees~ to 75 |degrees~ until doubled, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Punch down and knead briefly on a lightly floured board to expel air. Repeat rising in oiled bowl until doubled, 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Punch down dough and knead briefly.

On a floured board, shape dough into a smooth 5-inch ball. Place on a well-floured baking sheet. Cover lightly with plastic wrap and let rise until dough is puffy and holds a faint impression when lightly pressed, about 25 minutes. At least 30 minutes before baking, place a 14- by 16-inch baking stone or 12- by 15-inch baking sheet in an oven and heat to 400 |degrees~.

With a razor blade or very sharp knife, slash an asterisk about 1/4 inch deep and 6 inches across into top of dough. Sprinkle slash with coarse salt.

Using a spray bottle, mist loaf and walls of oven (avoid light bulb). Slide bread onto stone, remist oven, and bake until bread is deep golden, about 35 minutes. Lift loaf to a rack to cool. Makes 1 loaf, about 1 1/2 pounds.