Wyoming's guest ranch highway

Sunset, July, 1994 by Steven R. Lorton

Off the beaten path near Yellowstone...scenic drives and horseback rides

MOVIE COWBOYS AND cowgirls usually ride west into the sunset, but if you're visiting Yellowstone or the Grand Tetons, there's good reason to head toward the sunrise. East of Grand Teton National Park and southeast of Yellowstone, U.S. Highway 26/287 crosses the Continental Divide and heads to Dubois. This stretch of highway offers travelers a chance to get beyond the parks' tourist hubbub to a little-known patch of the legendary West.

Here, mountain and meadow views rival those in the national parks. The highway and its side roads are dotted with interesting places to stay, both guest ranches where you can live the Old West on extended stays and lodges that offer overnight accommodations and back-country outings.

GETTING THERE IS HALF THE FUN

From Moran Junction, the road climbs more than 2,600 feet through Bridger-Teton National Forest to the Continental Divide at Togwotee Pass, elevation 9,658 feet. Expect to see patches of snow as you approach the divide. Alpine wildflowers start blooming in June. At the summit, the Pinnacles--a series of jagged peaks--rise to crown the ridge.

From here, the highway winds down (but not hair-raisingly) through Shoshone National Forest. The air is fragrant with lodgepole and ponderosa pines. All along this road, signs point to dude ranches, outfitters, lodges, and motels.

About 8 miles before you reach Dubois, the land flattens out and becomes suddenly arid. You're at the beginning of the Great Plains.

FINDING A RANCH THAT FITS LIKE A SADDLE

Of the dozen or so dude ranches that cluster along this stretch of highway, most have a minimum stay of three days; some require six.

The lodges are big, often built of logs, and they usually smell of woodsmoke. In the common rooms, Indian blankets may be flung over worn leather chairs and artifacts mounted on walls. There are corners to read in and big tables to stand around with a glass of wine before you step out on the porch to watch the sunset. The owner might give you tips on your riding, offer short geology lessons, or tell family stories about early Wyoming and ranching.

On any ranch, a dude's day is full. A ranch-hand breakfast hits the table between 7 and 8. It's typically hearty: bacon, sausage, ham, eggs any style, toast, pancakes, assorted hot and cold cereals, hash browns, biscuits and gravy, fruits and juices. By 9, the saddles are cinched and horses and riders (rarely more than 10 each) head out for the first ride of the day. The ride may take you across a gentle wildflower-filled meadow, or into a mixed forest. Or you might head into the high country, with steeper climbs. After a sizable lunch, there are more opportunities for riding, or for hiking, canoeing, swimming, fishing, or playing horseshoes or volleyball. Tea is served around 4 (forget your waistline); cocktails are at 6, dinner at 8. Then come the campfire and a sing-along, a talk by a local naturalist, or performances by local artists, including Native American dancers, cowboy poets, and musicians.

Cost for a dude ranch stay varies, but expect to spend about $150 per person per day for lodging, all meals, and most activities. Overnight pack trips and river runs usually cost extra. Most ranches offer pickup and drop-off at the Jackson Airport.

Most dude ranches in this area are members of the Wyoming Dude Ranch Association. For free brochures, write or call the association, Box 761, Dubois 82513; (307) 455-2584.

ON THE ROAD WHEN YOU HAVE ONLY A DAY OR TWO

If you don't have time to stay at a dude ranch but want to see the sights quickly, ride a horse, or perhaps stay overnight at a lodge along the highway, get an early start from the national parks.

From Moran Junction, drive 7 1/2 miles east to the U.S. Forest Service's Blackrock Ranger Station (open 8 to 4:30 weekdays, and weekends from mid-June to mid-September). Here, personnel can give you tips on hiking, fishing, and camping, and supply maps, some of which are free. You can also buy books about plants and animals.

Roadside lodges and restaurants--like dude ranches--offer breakfasts not to be missed. Pancakes are huge, sausages juicy, and the milk cold and loaded with butterfat.

Prices for overnight accommodation at lodges vary; expect to pay between $50 and $80 for a standard double. A half-day horse ride over trails up through the peaks of the divide costs about $40 per person. Some lodgings and outfitters accept reservations.

For information about lodging and travel west of the divide, call the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce at (307) 733-3316. For the east side, call the Dubois chamber at 455-2556.