Where to find the perfect peach

Sunset, July, 1995 by Bill Crosby

Some might praise sweet corn, others watermelon, but we'll go out on a limb and claim that the peach is the essential taste of summer. Here are cities, fruit stands, and farms around the West where readers have found perfection. Where listed, use the phone numbers to check on hours and availability.

Sammi Jo Thielen's epiphany took place 15 years ago in Wenatchee, Washington. This Laguna Hills, California, reader writes: "It was the summer of my sophomore year in high school. A group of us girls drove from Bellevue to visit a friend who had gone to her uncle's farm to pack peaches. During our stay we were treated to the hugest, juiciest, sweetest, most indescribable peaches you could ever eat. Anyone traveling through Wenatchee will be sure to find the perfect peach!"

Kerry Retzel, a horticulturist with Chelan County Cooperative Extension, tells us the Wenatchee peaches start coming in the third week of July, depending on variety, and peter out in late September. Roadside stands abound along both major highways (U.S. 2 and 97).

Dorothy Shaffer of Prosser, Washington, finds perfection farther east. "The Gold Medal peaches from Ray French Orchards out of Richland, Washington, are food for the gods." The Gold Medals usually peak about Labor Day; the orchard's improved Elbertas come in mid-August. The orchard is on the outskirts of town on Keene Road. Call (509) 627-3673.

Clarence Aspinwall's Fruit Stand (now called Andy's) on the Salem-Dallas Highway (State 223) about 5 miles west of Salem was recommended by several Oregonians. Aumsville reader Becky Davis writes: "We love the early Elberta peaches for freezing. Eating them just before they're fully thawed is better than eating any ice cream. And then there are Redhavens and...well, I'd tell you more but I'm beginning to drool." Andy's peaches start coming in early this month. Call (503) 362-1363.

The Emanuel family of Walnut Creek, California, gets a postcard this time of year from Manas Ranch, 12 miles north of Winters, California, in Yolo County. The ranch thus lets its 3,000 fans know when its two varieties - Redtop and O'Henry - will be at its fruit stand, usually early July and early August, respectively. The ranch and stand are on Road 21A, about 1/2 mile west of State 16, which leads west from Interstate 505 north of Winters. Manas Ranch also takes advance orders at (916) 787-3228.

Two Modesto, California, stands were also picked: Stackhouse Brothers Orchards and Smith Ranch. Local Marilyn Frederickson suggests getting to Smith's early: "It opens at 9 and stays open until the fruit sells out, which sometimes isn't too late." Smith Ranch is at 701 Claratina Avenue, off McHenry Avenue, the main drag through town; call (209) 522-1718. Angela Scott of nearby Riverbank says of Stackhouse, "It seems that every time I am there, I go home with more than I bought. Fruit that is slightly bruised or what they say is old is given away. I have made so many fresh peach pies just from the fruit they have given me!" Stackhouse is on Oakdale Road between Sylvan Avenue and Claribel Road; call (209) 883-2663.

Up on Colorado's Western Slope, yellow-fleshed freestone peaches (Red Globe, Cresthaven, and Suncrest) come in at the end of July, according to Grand Junction reader Alyce Price. She recommends farmers' markets in Grand Junction and Palisade for choice pickings. You can stop by the agricultural extension office at 619 Main Street in Grand Junction for a map of stands in the area.

Finally, Ruth Anne Moorhead checks in from Pocatello, Idaho, with this observation, which we present without comment: "Where to find the best peach? Without a doubt, in a NECTARINE!

* Washes clean easily because of that smooth skin, which doesn't need to be peeled off.

* Juicy as a peach and usually more flavorful.

* Earlier than peaches here in Idaho.

* Easy as pie to slice and dry, and, once dried, practically indistinguishable from the peach."