Sea fever - ship-training vessels

Sunset, July, 1995 by Lora J. Finnegan, Jean MacPherson

Help sail a tall ship for a day or more out of ports from British Columbia to Southern California

The fog was rolling in as we hoisted sail and pointed The Hawaiian Chieftain toward the Golden Gate. Directed by the first mate, I stood at my designated post, called a bracing station, along with a father and his young son. Together, we hauled away on the lines holding the topsail in place and prepared to brace the yards and come about.

The captain's shouted commands directed a flurry of passenger and crew activity on the deck: "Ease your starboard lower brace" and "Sweat 'em in snug" and finally "Coil down." Somehow, we first-time sailors managed rather well, and it was pretty smooth sailing the rest of that day on San Francisco Bay.

The Hawaiian Chieftain is one of seven tall-ship training vessels from the Pacific Northwest to Southern California offering passengers a taste of the hard work and real adventure involved in hoisting a sail or handling a tiller. You can go for a day or the better part of a week, all the while pitching in with the sailing chores. Or, if you're not quite so energetic, you can just sit back and watch others work, letting the wind ruffle your hair and the romance of a bygone era fill your daydreams.

Your imagination doesn't have to work hard to give you a sense of what it must have been like to sail aboard a top-sail schooner or square-rigged brigantine. Each ship sails with experts on board, who demonstrate early nautical practices and handle the most critical sailing duties.

Prices for scheduled trips start as low as $20; many of these ships are run by non-profit organizations, with fees helping to keep the vessels afloat. Some ships specialize in taking out organized groups, while others offer extended sail-training voyages. For a list of training vessels around the country, order a copy of Directory of Tall Ships and Sail Training Programs ($8.50) from the nonprofit American Sail Training Association at (401) 846-1775.

CALIFORNIA

Californian. This 145-foot topsail schooner is a replica of an 1848 revenue cutter and one of the biggest wooden sailing ships on the West Coast. On 4-hour outings, you might coil lines, help the first mate hoist the sails, or even take a turn at the helm. On longer adults-only cruises, lasting up to four days, you share many of the sailing duties by day and enjoy lively lectures by night. Californian is run by the Nautical Heritage Society. Day sails cost $75 (unless listed otherwise); the ship departs Sausalito July 1, Oakland July 2, Monterey July 8 and 9, San Francisco July 15 and 16, Santa Cruz July 23, Bodega Bay July 29 ($95) and 30 ($85), Morro Bay August 5 and 6, and Long Beach August 12, 13, 19, 20, 26, and 27. For reservations, call (714) 661-1001.

The Hawaiian Chieftain. Modern computers, radar, and global positioning systems take nothing away from the classic lines of this 103-foot replica of a 1790s square topsail ketch. You sail under the crew's instruction while learning basic navigation and sail theory. Talks on board may also cover the history of traditionally rigged ships. Four-hour sail-training trips on San Francisco Bay depart at 9 A.M. the first Saturday of each month ($45, $25 ages 12 and under; lunch included). Other trips on the Chieftain include a little less participation and instruction, such as sunset cruises ($25 on Wednesdays, $30 on Fridays; $20 children) and Sunday brunch cruises ($45, $25 children). The Chieftain operates through October out of Sausalito. For reservations, call (415) 331-3214.

Pilgrim of Newport. Picture a 1770 Revolutionary War schooner in Newport Beach and you'll get a pretty good idea of the impact of this 114-foot replica in harbor. On cruises to Santa Catalina Island, you can help handle sails on this gaff-rigged ship or take a turn at the helm. The day-long cruises include continental breakfast and dinner aboard; cost is $62, $45 ages 4 through 12. For reservations, call (714) 642-4875. The Orange County Marine Institute in Dana Point uses Pilgrim for its two-day cruises to Catalina departing July 29 and August 5 and 19. The cost of $199 per person includes a berth, all meals, and instruction in seamanship and navigation. For reservations, call (714) 496-2274.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

The Adventuress. This 101-foot gaff-rigged ship once plied the waters off San Francisco's Golden Gate in all weather as a pilot boat, but for the last 30 years it has roamed the calmer waters of Puget Sound. Passengers learn about the marine environment, navigation, and nautical history. You can take day sails (about $25, $15 ages 8 through 18) or 4- to 10-day cruises (prices vary). Be prepared to help with the sails and to join in singing rousing sea chanteys. The ship docks in Olympia, Port Townsend, and Seattle, and is run by the nonprofit Sound Experience. For reservations, call (360) 379-0438.

The Lady Washington. Though it looks authentic, this 112-foot square-rigger, built by Grays Harbor Historical Seaport, is actually a replica of a 1780s brig that fought as a privateer during the Revolutionary War. As the crow lays aloft and casts off gaskets from the 12 sails, you can almost hear the songs of sailors who fought during that war - that is, if you haven't been deafened by the cannon blast that signals the ship's departure. On day trips, passengers may work with a member of the foremast or mainmast crew to help set sail (on a square-rigger, sails drop) or stand a trick (take a turn) at the tiller. There's no crow's nest, but stalwart volunteers may scale the mast (wearing a safety harness, of course). Choose a 2-hour voyage ($20, $18.50 ages 65 and over, $12.50 ages 3 through 12) or a 2 1/2-hour sunset cruise ($35, $31.50 seniors, $26 children). Trips depart daily from June 1 through September 30 from Pier 54 in Seattle. For times and reservations, call (206) 682-4876.