A curry classic - includes recipes

Sunset, July, 1995 by Betsy Reynolds Bateson

Keep this yellow paste on hand for seasoning a variety of dishes

A recipe search for a yellow curry paste led us to Asian cooking expert and restaurateur Bruce Cost. As a result of his thorough research into yellow curry pastes, he developed this classic version, which he uses at Ginger Club in Palo Alto, California, and Ginger Island in Berkeley.

Make the paste to use in Cost's recipe for noodles with curry, scallops, and chives - it's a perfect vehicle for showing off the curry. Stir the remaining paste into fried rice, soups, scrambled eggs - even tuna salad. One batch will keep as long as a month in the refrigerator.

Yellow Curry Paste

Cooking time: About 2 minutes to toast seeds

Prep time: About 20 minutes

Makes: 1 cup

10 to 15 (about 1/4 oz.) small dried hot red chilies

2 tablespoons coriander seed

1 tablespoon cumin seed

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

3/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro (coriander), including stems

1/4 cup each fresh lime juice and chopped garlic (about 12 cloves)

2 tablespoons each fish sauce, chopped fresh ginger, and minced lemon grass core (about 1 large stalk, tough outer layers discarded and bottom bulb portion used)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh galangal or fresh ginger

2 teaspoons ground dried turmeric or 1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh turmeric

2 teaspoons peanut oil

1 tablespoon ground fish sauce (anchovy cream or shrimp paste) or 1 tablespoon fish sauce

1. To an 8- to 10-inch frying pan, add chilies, coriander seed, cumin seed, and peppercorns. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. With a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder, grind toasted ingredients to a coarse powder; set aside.

2. To a food processor or blender, add cilantro, lime juice, garlic, fish sauce, ginger, lemon grass, galangal, turmeric, and peanut oil; pulse or whirl to grind to a coarse paste. Add ground spice mixture and ground fish sauce; pulse or whirl until mixture is smooth. Use, or store airtight in the refrigerator up to 1 month. Makes about 1 cup.

Per tablespoon: 24 cal. (11 cal., 45% from fat); 0.8 g protein; 1.2 g fat (0.2 g sat.); 3 g carbo.; 2 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Noodles with Curry, Scallops, and Chives

Cooking time: About 15 minutes

Prep time: About 10 minutes

Makes: 4 servings

3/4 pound large scallops 2 teaspoons each cornstarch and Asian sesame oil 3/4 pound fresh Chinese egg noodles About 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1/2 cup regular-strength chicken broth 1/4 cup yellow curry paste (from preceding recipe) 1 teaspoon sugar 2 cups 1 1/2-inch pieces Chinese chives or green onions, ends trimmed 3/4 cup coarsely chopped roasted and salted peanuts Fresh lime slices (optional) Cilantro (coriander) sprigs (optional)

1. Slice each scallop crosswise into about 3 rounds, each about 1/3 inch thick. Mix with cornstarch and sesame oil; chili at least 15 minutes, or up to 4 hours.

2. Meanwhile, in a 5- to 6-quart pan, bring 2 quarts water to a boil. Add noodles; cook just until tender to bite, about 4 minutes. Drain; rinse with cold water. Gently toss with 1 teaspoon peanut oil; set aside.

3. In a wok or 12-inch frying pan over high heat, heat 2 tablespoons peanut oil until hot. Add half the scallops, lower heat to medium, and quickly stir to separate rounds. Cook, turning often, until scallops are opaque but still moist-baking in center (cut to test), about 4 minutes. Remove scallops with a slotted spoon; drain on paper towels. Add remaining scallops, and repeat.

4. To pan drippings, add broth, curry paste, and sugar. Stir briefly and add chives; cook 5 seconds. Add noodles and cook, stirring, 30 seconds more, then add scallops and cook just until hot. Divide among 4 dinner plates. Sprinkle with peanuts, and garnish with lime slices and cilantro sprigs; serve immediately.

Per serving: 601 cal. (189 cal., 31% from fat); 31 g protein; 21 g fat (3.3 g sat.); 74 g carbo.; 223 mg sodium; 109 mg chol.