Blissfully snowbound in Canada's Rockies - fun winter vacation spots - includes related article on lodging and logistics

Sunset, Jan, 1997 by Steven Lorton

Jasper, Lake Louise, and Banff offer magnificent scenery, luxurious lodgings, and whiz-bang winter fun

Big, feathery snowflakes float from the sky as we climb into a sleigh for a moonlight ride along the shore of Lake Louise. The powerful draft horses are anxious to get going, shifting from one foot to another, snorting out jets of steamy breath, shaking their heads, and making their bells jingle. In a moment the horses pull in unison, and the 17-passenger sleigh begins gliding over the snow. Silhouettes of massive mountains loom all around us, and in the distance Chateau Lake Louise twinkles like a jewel box filled with diamonds. We are halfway through a winter vacation in the Canadian Rockies, and our dream is coming true.

In search of a memorable trip, my wife, my son, and I had planned an itinerary that included stays at the three grand lodges operated by Canadian Pacific Hotels at Jasper, Lake Louise, and Banff. Each of these resorts offered a mix of cross-country and downhill skiing as well as a taste of luxury. Though we could have flown into nearby Calgary or Edmonton, we chose to ride to Jasper aboard VIA Rail, Canada's classic transcontinental train.

After boarding the train one evening in Vancouver, British Columbia, we climbed into the bunks in our snug sleeping compartment. The next morning, we lingered over breakfast, staring out the windows at a magical scene: snow covered every inch of the landscape, from the ground to the 12,972-foot summit of Mount Robson. As the train neared Jasper for our 1:45 P.M. arrival, the mood onboard became festive, almost giddy, as if everyone knew a fabulous party was about to start.

JASPER: LOG-CABIN LUXURY

Jasper Park Lodge was built in 1922 on the shore of Lac Beauvert. Most of the guest rooms are in elegantly rustic cabins and small lodges that dot the grounds (a few rooms are in the main lodge). We settled into a log cabin for three cozy nights on beds with down quilts and feather pillows.

We feasted in the Edith Cavell Dining Room, starting the first evening with chowder made from wild mushrooms, mixed grains, and fireweed honey. The blackened beef tenderloin came with a roasted-tomato compote. The rack of lamb had a Dijon mustard, garlic, and rosemary crust and was served with pear and mint jelly. And the chocolate-praline tart with mango sauce and caramelized bananas was heavenly.

Later, swimming beneath the stars in an enormous heated pool, we watched as a few hardy bathers flopped in the snow before diving back into the steaming water.

The next morning, we skied at Marmot Basin, a 25-minute ride by shuttle bus from Jasper Park Lodge. This alpine ski area boasts a respectable 2,944-foot vertical drop and good intermediate slopes, with large open bowls near the summit and tree-lined runs farther down the mountain. It was refreshing not to have to wait in a lift line - and that was the case everywhere we skied on this trip. The following day, hiking into Maligne Canyon, just 10 minutes from the lodge, we found frozen waterfalls and gigantic icicles cascading from rock walls.

LAKE LOUISE: PUTTING ON THE RITZ

Three nights go fast in paradise. Soon we were on the road, headed 140 miles south to Chateau Lake Louise for a two-night stay. The eight-story chateau, built in 1913, is backed by the icy face of the Victoria Glacier. Exquisitely appointed inside and out, the chateau is as beautiful a hotel as there is.

Chef Dominique Guyot rounds up the freshest ingredients for his dishes in the Edelweiss Dining Room. A buffalo rib-eye steak was lean but succulent, served with a black pepper and red currant sauce. The baked salmon, topped with lime and dill, came with a mango-papaya sauce and mixed beans. The beef Stroganoff was laced with thick noodles, large chunks of Alberta beef, and sour cream. For dessert, the apple tart was baked with maple sugar, then drenched with vanilla sauce.

I'd have been perfectly content to plop into an overstuffed chair and stare out at the snowy wonderland. But the call of the wild came through the windows. We ventured out for a sleigh ride, watched toboggans shooting down a nearby run, and hiked beside the lake. I even strapped on a pair of snowshoes for a while (if you can imagine a duck trying to Charleston, you'll know how graceful I was).

BANFF: REGAL STYLE, SPIRITED SLED DOGS

We spent the final three nights of our trip at the Banff Springs Hotel. Built in 1928 in grand Edwardian style, the 12-story structure with steeply pitched roofs resembles a castle. Inside, ornately carved woodwork and furniture set a scene in which you wouldn't be surprised to encounter King George V and Queen Mary.

The hotel's Rob Roy Dining Room, with an open-beam ceiling and a huge fireplace, looks out on the majestic Bow Valley. Here, the salmon has a deliciously musky flavor, having been first marinated in whiskey and soy sauce, then baked on a cedar plank.

Down the hill from the hotel, the tony village of Banff is cluttered with stylish shops and art galleries. The ski area of Banff/Mt. Norquay is only 10 minutes away by shuttle van, and very quickly the shops give way to herds of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep.