One step at a time

Sunset, Jan, 1998

* When a baby takes its first step, as my wee grandson, Henry, is aiming to do momentarily, a whole new world unfolds. For me, January marks less dramatic, more symbolic changes. Obligations of the old year are settled. The calendar is ready for fresh inscriptions. And finding simpler ways to make interesting dishes freshens up my world.

To me, this means trimming recipe ingredient lists. And often, brevity comes from making use of unexpected, multidimensional elements that on their own complement a variety of foods.

Apricot jam, for instance, can be quickly turned into an excellent chutney. Then the chutney itself can become the essential ingredient of a rich braising sauce for pork tenderloin.

Henry is hankering for a lot of steps. But me - I want fewer.

Quick Apricot Chutney

Prep and cook time: 10 to 15 minutes

Notes: This simple, sweet-tart relish lasts as long as a jar of jam, which in my refrigerator can be many moons. Eat the chutney on toast with cream cheese; serve it with meat, poultry, or a curry; or cook with it, as in the pork tenderloin recipe that follows.

Makes: 2 cups

2 jars (10 oz. each; 1 1/2 cups total) apricot jam 1 cup rice vinegar 1/3 cup mustard seed 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

1. In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan, combine jam, vinegar, mustard seed, and ginger.

2. Stirring often, bring mixture to a boil over high heat. Continue boiling, stirring often, until reduced to 2 cups, about 8 minutes.

3. Let the apricot chutney cool, then serve. Or pour into a jar, cover airtight, and chill.

Per tablespoon: 45 cal., 12% (5.4 cal.) from fat; 0.6 g protein; 0.6 g fat (0 g sat.); 10 g carbo (0.5 g fiber); 6.1 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Pork Tenderloin with Apricot Chutney

Prep and cook time: About 20 minutes

Notes: Serve with a curry-seasoned risotto or pilaf and a nippy salad of watercress or Belgian endive. For variation, use boned, skinned, and fat-trimmed chicken thighs (about 1 lb. total) instead of pork; brown the meat (about 6 minutes), then cook with the chutney and water just until the thighs are tender when pierced, 10 to 12 minutes. You may need to add another 1/4 cup water or so to keep the sauce from scorching.

Makes: 4 servings

1 pork tenderloin (about 1 lb.), fat-trimmed 1 to 2 teaspoons butter or margarine 1/3 cup quick apricot chutney (recipe precedes) Salt and pepper

1. If necessary to keep the tenderloin in a compact piece, tie meat at several intervals with cotton string.

2. Melt butter in an ovenproof 10- to 12-inch nonstick frying pan over high heat. Add pork tenderloin and turn as needed to brown well on all sides, 5 to 6 minutes total.

3. Add apricot chutney and 1/3 cup water to pan and stir to incorporate meat drippings. Baste tenderloin with some of the sauce, and then put it in a 450 [degrees] oven.

4. Roast pork, basting often with sauce, until meat is 150 [degrees] to 155 [degrees] in center of thickest part, 12 to 14 minutes. If sauce starts to scorch, stir in water, 2 tablespoons at a time.

5. Transfer the tenderloin to a platter. Pour the apricot chutney sauce over pork, or serve the sauce in a small bowl and add to taste. Slice tenderloin and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Per serving: 235 cal., 23% (53 cal.) from fat; 25 g protein; 5.9 g fat (2 g sat.); 21 g carbo (0.9 g fiber); 79 mg sodium; 76 mg chol.